Summer Routes
Traverse Route
To go up this route, we take the cable car to the Aiguille du Midi (3,842m) around midday. From here, we descend the Aiguille du Midi arête to the Glacier du Tacul névé, then continue on easy terrain for approximately 45min. to the Cosmiques refuge (3,613m). The following morning we start around 2 am by climbing Mont Blanc du Tacul. This ascent can be difficult at times. Due to warm temperatures in recent years, more crevasses have opened up and at times this has required climbing on some steep, exposed terrain.
After reaching the shoulder of Mont Blanc du Tacul we descend and traverse to the Col du Mont Maudit. From here we ascend a long snow slope to the final piece of technical ground, which can be very steep and requires good front pointing technique and use of an ice axe. Descending once again to Col de la Brenva with stunning scenery towards Italy, we then climb the last few hundred metres to the summit. Although relatively easy, this is generally quite slow due to the effects of altitude.
This route takes approximately six hours to the summit of Mont Blanc. We may descend the same way or via the Goûter, completing the traverse of Mont Blanc. This is a slightly more demanding route than the Goûter route, both technically and physically. We have to tackle steeper ground and there are a couple of traverses that may be icy and difficult. Good crampon and ice axe techniques are essential. It is, however, a more interesting route with beautiful scenery and is less crowded. The Cosmiques refuge can also mean a better night’s sleep, as it is less busy and of a higher standard than the Goûter refuge.
Click here to see our Mont Blanc 3D map, with the route description.
Goûter Route
This is the classic and most popular route to climb Mont Blanc. The Goûter refuge is normally very crowded and it is difficult to make reservations. We take the Bellevue cable car from Les Houches and then the Tramway du Mont Blanc to the Nid d’Aigle (2,372m). From here there is about five hours of walking/scrambling to the Goûter refuge (3,817m).
The first section is easy walking terrain on a well established path. Just after the Tête Rousse refuge we have to cross the infamous Grand Couloir where there is often rock fall from above. The last 550m from here is scrambling rather than walking and not always easy – especially on the descent when you are tired.
The following morning we start around 2 am. From now on, we are on glaciated terrain and will wear crampons. Most of the ascent is a long snow plod without any steep ground to encounter. You will walk past the Vallot refuge, an emergency bivouac and then climb along the Bosses ridge – the two lumps which form the distinctive skyline seen from the valley. This is an exposed ridge which requires concentration and good crampon technique.
This route takes about four and a half hours to the summit of Mont Blanc and we will normally descend the same way back to the train.
Click here to see our Mont Blanc 3D map, with the route description.
