Matterhorn 6 day itinerary

The itinerary presented here is purely an example of what might happen in a perfect week and could be changed due to circumstances beyond the control of the guides, including adverse weather conditions.     

Arrival Day.

The group will rendez-vous at the Yeti Lodge in Argentière (altitude 1,240m), just a few kilometres from Chamonix. Here, you will be welcomed and made to feel at home.

In the evening, we will have an informal chat about the upcoming week. There will also be a chance for the guide to check out your clothing and gear and to decide if you will need to pick up any further items of equipment before setting out in the morning. After this, it will be time to sit down to an excellent three-course dinner.

 

Day 1. Rock climbing in the Aiguilles Rouges

After a full breakfast, we will take the lift from Les Praz up to Flégère (2,385m). Up here we have the opportunity to brush up on our rock skills whilst doing a traverse of the Aiguilles Crochues. We are fairly high so it will help our acclimatisation at the same time as we get to practice rock climbing, moving together and abseiling, all important techniques for the Matterhorn. We might even have to use crampons and ice axe to get back down toward Lac Blanc at the end of the climb, depending on the season.

Day 2. Ice skills and walk to the Argentière refuge

 

To assist with our acclimatisation and to get an early start the following day, we plan to spend tonight in the Argentière refuge (2,771m). We take the Lognan cable car up the Grands Montets (3,295m). Here we have a chance to practise crampons and ice axe skills before eventually heading off to the Argentière refuge, approximately a one and a half hour walk on glacier.

Day 3. Climb the Aiguille d’Argentière, return to chalet

We are up bright and early at 4 a.m. As the sun comes up, we will be crunching up the Améthystes glacier in our crampons. We will eventually reach the rock ridge called Flèche Rousse that will take us up to the Aiguille d’Argentière (3,900m). This is very similar terrain to the Matterhorn but slightly easier and lower. From the summit we get amazing views of the classic peaks surrounding the Argentière basin, Chardonnet, Mont Dolent, the Courtes, the Droites and the Vert. 

 

Day 4. Papillon Ridge

We take the early morning lift from Chamonix up to the Plan de l’Aiguille, the mid-station of the Aiguille du Midi cable car. We have a short walk/scramble before we reach the bottom of the Papillon Ridge on the Aiguille du Peigne. Today, we aim to further practise our rock climbing technique on this classic ridge. It is relatively easy but nevertheless exposed and quite exciting.

** Flexibility is the key to this programme and if weather conditions dictate, we could bring forward the ascent of Matterhorn by a day to take advantage of any weather window (i.e. if bad weather is forecast on the scheduled day of the ascent). In this scenario, the group will make their way to Zermatt and the Hornli refuge in readiness for the climb the next day.

Day 5. Drive to Zermatt and go to the Hornli refuge

Now that our training is over, we are ready for the Matterhorn. The group will be joined by more guides (ratio 1 clients to 1 guide).

We have about three hour drive to Zermatt in the morning. From there we take the lift part of the way up the mountain and only have to walk for about 2 1/2 h before we reach the Hoenli refuge.

 

Day 6. Summit day and return to Argentière

We can expect an early start. Approximately 2 a.m. we should be leaving the refuge. The fairly demanding climb to the summit should take us about 4-5 hours. It is mostly on rocky terrain along an exposed ridge. Only for the very last bit we might have to put our crampons on. The descent takes almost as long as we have to down climb the way we came up.

After a late well deserved lunch in Zermatt ,we drive back to the chalet in Argentière.

 

Departure Day.

The trip package ends after breakfast.