Advanced Winter Mountaineering Course Chamonix

Advanced Winter Mountaineering - 5 Days of Alpinism in the Mont Blanc Massif

Our Chamonix advanced winter alpine climbing course is the second level of our winter mountaineering programme. Following on from the success of our introduction to winter mountaineering course and listening to our clients' recommendations, we decided to create a more challenging and advanced course for more experienced climbers.

If you want to explore the Chamonix valley and climb some serious ascents in the Mont Blanc Massif, this course is designed for you.

Our advanced winter mountaineering course is based on a 1:2 ratio (one guide to two clients) for the full five days, so you are not limited in difficulty and choice of routes.

The advanced winter mountaineering programme is designed for mountaineers inclined to learn and improve their alpine climbing skills and who have interest in climbing harder routes, either mixed climbs, ice climbs or gullies at high altitude.

Over five days we cover ice climbing, mixed climbing (rock and ice), snow and ice gullies, use of protection in these types of terrain, and safety techniques.

If all members of the group are good skiers it is possible that we can offer access to some of the areas on skis, in order to save time and energy!

The course objectives include:

Trip planning  (selection of appropriate itinerary, weather forecast, etc).  Hazard evaluation (cornices, seracs, avalanche, rock fall, bergshrunds) Selection and preparation of the right equipment.  Route finding on multi-pitch climbs Building of belays and rope work during the ascent Team work (communication and efficiency) Advanced techniques in ice/mixed/ rock climbing. How to climb fast and efficiently Safety techniques for fast and secure abseiling (communication, use of prussic, building / selecting appropriate anchors) Retreat techniques Lot of fun climbing

Advanced Winter Mountaineering Course Requirements

This course is for those who have already done some summer or winter alpine climbing. As well as a good level of fitness you should have the following experience:

Basic rope work skills (e.g. knots, how to belay and rappel, etc.) Basic crampon and ice axe skills At least 5 multi-pitch routes in either sport or traditional climbing At least one day of ice climbing At least one alpine route (summer or winter)

For the climbing experience above, the grades are not important and lead climbing is not required.

It is essential that you are physically very fit. You will be expected to climb fairly long routes and have enough strength left to descend back to the valley. Don’t hesitate to contact us if you need advice about how to train and prepare for this course.

We recommend taking our Winter Alpine Climbing Introduction Course, our 5 Day Ice Climbing Course or one of our summer alpine climbing courses prior to this course.