Fantastic classic route on high altitude quality granite. It offers very varied climbing: slabs, cracks and laybacks. The south facing exposure and easy access place this climb on top of every climber’s wish list.

AIGUILLE DU MIDI RéBUFFAT – BAQUET ROUTE (3842 M)

Five pitches of climbing on the sunny South Face of the Aiguille du Midi

From 430.00€

Price per guide

   

Advanced tech level

 

1 day climb

 

1:2 guiding ratio

 

Available May - October

First climbed in 1956 by Maurice Baquet and Gaston Rébuffat, this route offers fantastic climbing on well-structured, high quality alpine granite. 200m of up to French 6b at altitude of 3842m. This is a trad route – the protection is on slings, cams and nuts. 

Surrounded by glaciers and 4000m peaks, you will have great views from your belay stations!

P1 4b 

P2 5c

P3 6a

P4 5c

P5 5c

P6 6a

P7 5c

P8 5b

P9 6b or A0

Itinerary

Arrival day

You will meet your guide on the evening before the climb to have a chat about the day and to check that you have all that you will need for the day. 

Day 1

This is a one-day climb. You will start early to catch the first lift up to Aiguille du Midi. From the top lift station, you will put on your crampons to descend down the summit ridge and walk to the base of the climb (15min). From there you limb (9 pitches) to the summit and directly to the lift station. Easy!

Level Requirements

Technical level

Multi pitch rock climbing experience is obligatory for this climb. You need to be able to follow French 6a and be familiar with crack climbing techniques. You need to be familiar with using crampons and ice axe as the approach is on glacier (you need to descend the short but steep and exposed summit ridge of the Aiguille du Midi). 

Physical level

The climb is 200m on vertical wall with 6a / 6b passages. While there are no overhangs and climbing is mostly on your feet, you need to have the stamina for technical climbing at nearly 4000m altitude!

Equipment

Clothing

Mountaineering boots

Mountaineering boots

Thermal underwear

Thermal underwear

Fleece or woollen layers

Fleece or woollen layers

Light puffer jacket

Light puffer jacket

Windproof and waterproof jacket

Windproof and waterproof jacket

Thin gloves

Thin gloves

Climbing shoes

Climbing shoes

Climbing pants

Climbing pants

Technical gear

Ice Axe

Ice Axe

Harness

Harness

3 x Screwgate carabiner

3 x Screwgate carabiner

Crampons

Crampons

25-30 litres rucksack

25-30 litres rucksack

Lanyard

Lanyard

60 cm tape sling or cordelette for prusik

60 cm tape sling or cordelette for prusik

Belay device

Belay device

Climbing helmet

Climbing helmet

Extras

Sunglasses

Sunglasses

Water bottle (1 litre minimum)

Water bottle (1 litre minimum)

Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)

Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)

Included or not

Included

Guide Fee

UIAGM / IFMGA mountain guide - a fully qualified and experienced Chamex guide will accompany you for the duration of your trip.

Group Equipment

Ropes, safety equipment, etc will be provided when needed by your guide.

Not Included

Personal Equipment

Please see the "Equipment" tab to find out what you will need. Anything that you do not already have can be rented here in Chamonix, if there is anything you need then please contact us and we will be happy to organise it for you.

For private customised guiding, please contact us directly to confirm your personalised kit list.

Lift Passes

We will advise you on which lift passes you will need prior to your trip. If lift passes are required we can preorder them for you on request.

Insurance

We strongly recommend that you take our Search and Rescue mountain insurance - we can organise this for you on request.