France
   
Uk
 
 
A1

Climb Mont Blanc with a private guide

Climb Mont Blanc with a private Chamonix Experience Mountain Guide in 1:1 ratio over 4 days.

This 4 day programme was designed for those who prefer to summit the Mont Blanc with a private guide. There will be no other person on the rope with you and the ascent will be adapted to your speed and abilities. You will have the full attention of your guide allowing faster progress during the training days as well as faster ascent to the summit of Mont Blanc.

This programme is divided into two parts:

The first two days are allocated for preparation, acclimatisation and training. You will visit one of the famous local glacier - Mer de Glace, Argentiere glacier or the iconic Vallee Blanche. You will spend 1 night on a mountain hut to adjust to the high altitude and low air pressure. We will work with you on your ice axe & crampons techniques, rope work and glacier travel safety skills. 

The last two days are allocated for the Mont Blanc ascent. You we will climb Mont Blanc via the Gouter hut. We will stay either in the Tete Rousse or the Gouter hut, depending on the weather and conditions. We will summit the Mont Blanc on the last day of the programme and return to Chamonix. 

Description

Level requirements

Mont Blanc is a relatively technical and physically very demanding climb. You have to be able to move over uneven terrain with some steep sections and some scrambling pitches. You have to be able to hike and climb over such terrain for about 8 hours at a good and steady pace without being too tired the next day.

If you have some previous mountain climbing experience, such as Kilimanjaro or Aconcagua, it is great. But you should expect a far greater physical and technical challenge on the Mont Blanc climb.

However, we do accept beginners on this course and the first 3 days are allocated for acclimatisation and alpine training, which is specific for the challenge of climbing Mont Blanc. We will train you in crampon and ice axe techniques, glacier travel, and other important safety skills. As long as you are fit and have good stamina, you should not be disadvantaged by a lack of climbing experience.

Regular hiking and/or long distance running, swimming and/or cycling are great forms of training for this course. Remember that you have to include some uphill hiking and/or running - training on flat terrain will not give you the same kind of fitness, however it is better than no training at all! If you live in a city and have limited access to the outdoors, ask for advice at your local gym as many gyms have mountain climbing specific training programs.

If you need further advice on how to prepare for this course, please contact us on info@chamex.com

Dates

We run these programmes from beginning of June until end of September. Please contact to for check dates and availability. 

Guiding ratio

One client per guide during all 4 days.

Price

2950€

Price per person. 

Course Dates

Any date on demand

Included

Guide fee - 4 days

4 days of guiding and instruction by a UIAGM qualified mountain guide.

Lift passes

The cost of any lift access that is required during the course for the itinerary described above. 

Accommodation (half-board)

2 nights accommodation in mountain huts with breakfast and dinner included.

Local Transport

Any local transport that is required during your course.

Group Equipment

Ropes, safety equipment, etc will be provided when needed by your guide.

Office Support

Our team is based at the foot of the Aiguillle du Midi cable car and will be happy to help you with any questions you may have before, during or after your trip to Chamonix.

Not Included

Accommodation

Accommodation in Chamonix is not included in the price but we would be happy to advise or organise it on request.

Equipment

Please see the "Equipment" tab to find out what you will need. Anything that you do not already have can be rented here in Chamonix, if there is anything you need then please contact us and we will be happy to organise it for you.

For private customised guiding, please contact us directly to confirm your perdoanlised kit list.

Food & Drink

The price does not include lunch or snacks. You can bring your own food and we can stop for a picnic, or there may be the option to buy lunch at a mountain hut. Please make sure that you are carrying sufficient water and snacks as we will be in the mountains for a number of hours.

Insurance

We strongly recommend that you take our Search and Rescue mountain insurance - we can organise this for you on request.

Travel to Chamonix

The price does not include flights, airport transfers or any other travel to/from Chamonix. However, we can organise airport transfers for you on request, please contact us for details.

This itinerary is an example of what could be achieved with good weather and the right conditions. It will be changed by your guide to suit conditions and the group. The course starts with an evening meeting between you and your guide at our office. Your guide will go though the plan for the coming days and answer any questions you have.

D1 - D2

The first two days are allocated for the preparation and training. There are few options for the itinerary  and we will chose one according to the weather and conditions. For example, we will take Le Tour cable car and Hike up to the Albert 1er hut.  There will be a great terrain to practice the crampon and ice axe skills and crevasse rescue techniques on the Tour glacier. To improve our acclimatisation, we will spend the night on the hut. Second day will have early start and we will have the opportunity to use our new skills on a real Alpine climb. Your guide will chose the climb according to your fitness, skills and weather. The options are: 


  • Petite Fourche (3520 m)

  • Tete Blanche (3421 m)

  • Aiguille du Tour (3540 m)

After the climb, we will return to Chamonix for the night. 

D3

This is the first day of the Mont Blanc ascent. We will drive to Les Houches and take a cable car + train to the d'Aigle (2 372m). From here there is about 3 hours hike to the Tete Rousse hut (3165 m) and further 3 hours of hiking/scrambling to the Gouter refuge (3 817m). You will spend the nigh on one of these huts - your guide will chose the one according to the weather, conditions and your abilities. 

D4

A big day! You will start very early in the morning. Rope up with your guide and using your crampons and ice axe climb over the glaciated terrain to the summit of Mont Blanc. You should be on the summit with the sunrise. Then descent the same way back to Chamonix. 

Clothing

Mountaineering boots

Mountaineering boots

Warm hat

Warm hat

Thermal underwear

Thermal underwear

Fleece or woollen layers

Fleece or woollen layers

Light puffer jacket

Light puffer jacket

Windproof and waterproof jacket

Windproof and waterproof jacket

Windproof and waterproof trousers

Windproof and waterproof trousers

Warm gloves

Warm gloves

Thin gloves

Thin gloves

Gaiters

Gaiters

Sun hat

Sun hat

Technical gear

Ice Axe

Ice Axe

Harness

Harness

Telescopic poles

Telescopic poles

Ski goggles

Ski goggles

Screwgate carabiner

Screwgate carabiner

60 - 120 cm tape sling

60 - 120 cm tape sling

Climbing helmet

Climbing helmet

35 - 45 litres rucksack

35 - 45 litres rucksack

Crampons

Crampons

Extras

Sunglasses

Sunglasses

Water bottle (1 litre minimum)

Water bottle (1 litre minimum)

Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)

Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)

Headlamp with fresh batteries

Headlamp with fresh batteries

Sleeping bag liner

Sleeping bag liner

Mont Blanc - The Gouter Route also known as the normal route

Photo_5

This is the route which you will most likely climb on our Mont Blanc courses. While this is the easiest route to reach the Mont Blanc summit, it still requires good crampon skills, fitness and acclimatisation. We also chose this itinerary because it allows the ascent over 3 days. This is an advantage as you can climb up slowly and so cope better with the altitude and physical effort. Also, the climb is over 3 days giving an extra day to attempt the summit - a valuable opportunity if the weather is unstable. 

We will take the Bellevue cable car from Les Houches and the Tramway du Mont Blanc to the Nid d’Aigle (2372 m). From there is a 2 - 2.5 hours hike on a zig zagging, rocky path up to the Tete Rousse hut where you will spend a night. 

You will have an early start the next day to leave the hut at 2:00h AM. Hike towards the Aiguille du Gouter W face and across the Tete Rousse glacier to reach its SE edge. Continue up to reach the ridge which divides the the Tete Rousse and the Bionnassay glaciers and up the ridge to reach the Grand Couloir. The Grand Couloir is the most dangerous place on this climb as it is very prone to rockfalls. You wan to reach it very early in the morning and cross it very quickly. The couloir is only about 30 m wide but the path immediately before and after the couloir is also exposed to the rock falls so make sure that you stop on a safe place to get ready for the crossing. 

After the couloir, the path leads up and right over a south side of the ridge to the Aiguille du Gouter (3863 m) and on to the Gouter hut (3835 m). Today is the first opportunity to reach the Mont Blanc summit so if the weather is good and you have reached this point in a good time, you will continue up the NW face of Dome du Gouter (4303 m). The climb is relatively mellow passing around few crevasses. the path then leads From the Dome down to the Col des Domes (3564 m)to the Bosses ridge. A 100m of a steep snow climb will take you to the Vallot hut and then on over the Bosses ridge to the summit of Mont Blanc (4810 m). 

You will then descent back to the Gouter hut where you spend the night and down to Chamonix the next day. If you haven’t reached the summit on the second day of your climb, you will try on the third day. You will leave the Gouter hut at 1:30 AM, climb up to the Mont Blanc summit as described above and descend down to the Chamonix. The climb from the Tete Rousse hut to the Gouter hut takes about 3 hours and the Mont Blanc summit from the Gouter hut 5 - 6 hours.