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Eiger Mittellegi Ridge

Climb Mount Eiger over 2 days via the Mittellegi Ridge

The Eiger is one of Europe's most famous mountains, located in the stunning region of the Bernese Oberland.

The Mittellegi is the east ridge leading from Ostegg at 2709m to the summit and is the longest ridge on the Eiger, first climbed in 1921.

Spectacular views await you from the Mittellegi Ridge, with the lush green valley of Grindelwald in one direction and the famous north face of the Eiger in the other. Much of the ascent is along the crest of the ridge over a mix of limestone, snow and ice.

On this trip you will spend one night in the Mittellegi hut, a remote mountain refuge perched up high amongst the formidable peaks of the Bernese Oberland.

Climbing the Eiger via the Mittellegi ridge is a long, strenuous but extremely rewarding ascent that requires a reasonable level of mountaineering experience. This course is designed for those who have already completed our Matterhorn course, Alpine Climbing course or a private preparation course and wish to add the Eiger summit as a bonus to their week.

Description

The ascent is done over 2 days, with one night in the Mittellegihütte.

The ratio is 1 client to 1 guide and this big climb is organised on demand, ensuring a completely personal experience.

The Eiger season usually starts mid-July and ends mid-September. However, the conditions can occasionally be good at the beginning of July. The best approach is to contact us and we will check the conditions for you.

This course is designed for those who recently completed one of our following courses:

 Alpine Climbing Course

•  Matterhorn 6 Day Course

•  Rock Climbing Granite Course

•  Private Eiger Specific Preparation Course

You have to be acclimatised prior to this 2 day ascent, spending some time climbing in the Alps and practising your mountaineering skills is the perfect preparation.

Price

2250€

Price per person; ratio of 1 client per guide

Course Dates

Any date on demand

Included

Guide Fees

2 days of guiding and instruction by a UIAGM qualified mountain guide.

Eiger Summit Fee
Transport

Group transport to Grindelwald.

Group Equipment

Ropes, safety equipment, etc will be provided when needed by your guide.

Office Support

Our team is based at the foot of the Aiguille du Midi cable car and will be happy to help you with any questions you may have before, during or after your trip to Chamonix.

Not Included

Equipment

Please see the "Equipment" tab to find out what you will need. Anything that you do not already have can be rented here in Chamonix, if there is anything you need then please contact us and we will be happy to organise it for you.

For private customised guiding, please contact us directly to confirm your persoanlised kit list.

Insurance

We strongly recommend that you take our Search and Rescue mountain insurance - we can organise this for you on request.

Food & Drink

The price does not include lunch or snacks. You can bring your own food and we can stop for a picnic, or there may be the option to buy lunch at a mountain hut. Please make sure that you are carrying sufficient water and snacks as we will be in the mountains for a number of hours.

Lift Passes

We will advise you on which lift passes you will need prior to your trip. If lift passes are required we can preorder them for you on request.

Mittellegi Hut

Accommodation in the Mittellegihütte is not included, we will advise of the extra cost for this before you book your trip.

Accommodation

Accommodation in Chamonix is not included in the price but we would be happy to advise or organise it on request.

Travel to Chamonix

The price does not include flights, airport transfers or any other travel to/from Chamonix. However, we can organise airport transfers for you on request, please contact us for details.

Day 1: Drive to Grindelwald & Hike to Mittellegihütte

Your guide will meet you in the morning and drive with you to Grindelwald.

From Grindelwald you will take a train up to Eismeer station, the train trip is pretty scenic and passes through tunnels that were carved into the Eiger mountain.

The hike from Eismeer station to Mittellegihütte takes about 2.5 hours and passes over some rocky scrambling terrain with some passages on the Fieschergletscher glacier.

You will spend the night in the hut before climbing the Eiger tomorrow.

Day 2: Ascent of the Eiger

Today is the big day!

We usually do our ascents via the Mittellegi ridge which is the most spectacular. The climb is 615m over rock and mixed terrain of up to 5b.

If the conditions are not good for the ridge, we will choose another route – such as the classic South Ridge (AD or III). These itineraries are not technically very difficult, but they involve a full day of scrambling over tricky terrain where you have to stay well focused.

You will travel back to Chamonix at the end of today, where the course will finish over a well deserved glass of beer.

Climb the Eiger via the Mittellegi Ridge
Climb the Eiger via the Mittellegi Ridge
Climb the Eiger via the Mittellegi Ridge
Climb the Eiger via the Mittellegi Ridge
Climb the Eiger via the Mittellegi Ridge

Clothing

Mountaineering boots

Mountaineering boots

Thermal underwear

Thermal underwear

Light puffer jacket

Light puffer jacket

Windproof and waterproof jacket

Windproof and waterproof jacket

Windproof and waterproof trousers

Windproof and waterproof trousers

Thin gloves

Thin gloves

Gaiters

Gaiters

Sun hat

Sun hat

Technical gear

Ice Axe

Ice Axe

Harness

Harness

Screwgate carabiner

Screwgate carabiner

60 - 120 cm tape sling

60 - 120 cm tape sling

Belay device

Belay device

Climbing helmet

Climbing helmet

35 - 45 litres rucksack

35 - 45 litres rucksack

Pair of technical ice axes

Pair of technical ice axes

Ice climbing crampons

Ice climbing crampons

Extras

Sunglasses

Sunglasses

Water bottle (1 litre minimum)

Water bottle (1 litre minimum)

Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)

Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)

Headlamp with fresh batteries

Headlamp with fresh batteries

Sleeping bag liner

Sleeping bag liner

Bad Weather

If the weather forecast is poor, we will follow an alternative programme. From the Aiguille du Midi you can access the Cosmiques or Torino refuges. These are ideal bases to ascend classic mountaineering routes such as Mt Blanc du Tacul, Arete de Cosmiques, Point Lachenal, Tour Ronde and the Aiguille d ‘Entreves. Or we can drive to Italy or Switzerland and attempt the Gran Paradiso or the Weissmies in the Saas valley – please note there will be additional transport costs for options to Italy or Switzerland.

Staying in Mountain Huts

The high alpine huts are one of the big attractions to mountaineering or trekking in the Alps. They allow us the time to enjoy the mountains with only light packs and without having to worry about meals or finding somewhere to sleep! Most huts have only very basic facilities. Sleeping arrangements are in mixed sex dormitory-style rooms with bunks; there can be up to 20 people in one room.
Washing facilities are limited and generally there is no running water in any of the huts although this may vary in some huts. There are basins in which you can use bottled water to wash and clean your teeth, but they are NOT generally in private cubicles and are mixed sex. Toilets are generally septic-tank type (so non-flushing) and again mixed sex. You need to be prepared for simple living in the huts and appreciate they are located at high altitude and in inhospitable terrain.
A 3-course evening meal and breakfast are served by the guardian and his team and food is usually nourishing and filling. Beer, wine, soft drinks and snacks are also available. All food and drink in the huts is delivered by helicopter and consequently prices will be high e.g. between 3- 5€ or 8CHF for a 1.5 litre bottle of still water.
1) On arriving at the hut you must take off your boots and leave these together with your ice-axe and crampons in the foyer. Be sure to store these carefully as the hut is likely to get very busy and you’ll need to find all your kit in the morning rush!
2) House slippers are provided and must be worn in the hut
3) Your guide will register you with the guardian and will assign you your bunk
4) Follow the instructions of your guide and keep requests to the guardian and his team to a minimum – they are usually very busy sorting out groups, cooking meals, keeping the hut clean
5) In the morning your guide will often want to leave early – be sure to have all your kit ready to go the night before. Be organized and everything will be much easier!
6) It is recommended to bring ear-plugs for the nights – but make sure that you get up on time!
7) The sleeping bag liners are obligatory on swiss huts

Eismeer Station to Mittellegi Hut

Eiger-02

The first stage of climbing the Eiger is to make it up to the famous Mittellegihütte, at 3355m it is the highest mountain hut in the canton of Bern.

Starting from the Eismeer Station on the scenic Jungfrau railway line, we follow a dark and icy tunnel through the rock to come out on to the glacier on the south side of the Eiger. We pass a number of seracs on an exposed route that can be prone to rock and ice fall, the climb up to the hut takes around 2-2½ hours over mixed terrain.

​The Mittellegihütte is a large and well-equipped mountain refuge, often sleeping up to 700 people during the peak summer climbing season.