Expert tech level |
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Fitness level 5/5 |
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1 day climb |
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Available June - September |
Gran Capucin is a tall, steep rock pinnacle made of compact and nicely sculptured granite. With the summit at 3 838m, it offers superb and challenging high altitude rock climbing of difficulties ranging from 6a+ to 8a+.
The Swiss Route was first climbed in 1956 by Claude Asper, Marcel Bron, Mario Grossi and Marcel Morel. It may be one of the earliest and more popular of routes established, but it is by no means easy!
You can reach the start of the climb either from top of the Punta Helbronner lift or from the Aiguille du Midi lift. Be prepared for a long day (8 – 10h). Staying in the Torino or Cosmiques hut maybe a good idea to gain more time. It is good idea to be acclimatised in advance for this route.
The climb itself is around 300m on challenging terrain, it can however be longer if the bergshrund at the base is open. The pitches are as follows: 1) 5c 25m, 2) 6a+ 30m, 3) 5b 35m 4) 5b 35m 5) 6a 40m 6) 6a+ 20m 7) 6b 30m 8) 6a+ 35m 9) 4a 35m 10) 4a 35m. The descent is by abseil.
The Swiss Route was first climbed in 1956 by Claude Asper, Marcel Bron, Mario Grossi and Marcel Morel. It may be one of the earliest and more popular of routes established, but it is by no means easy!
You can reach the start of the climb either from top of the Punta Helbronner lift or from the Aiguille du Midi lift. Be prepared for a long day (8 – 10h). Staying in the Torino or Cosmiques hut maybe a good idea to gain more time. It is good idea to be acclimatised in advance for this route.
The climb itself is around 300m on challenging terrain, it can however be longer if the bergshrund at the base is open. The pitches are as follows: 1) 5c 25m, 2) 6a+ 30m, 3) 5b 35m 4) 5b 35m 5) 6a 40m 6) 6a+ 20m 7) 6b 30m 8) 6a+ 35m 9) 4a 35m 10) 4a 35m. The descent is by abseil.
You have to have the following skills:
Mountaineering boots
Warm hat
Thermal underwear
Fleece or woollen layers
Light puffer jacket
Windproof and waterproof jacket
Thin gloves
Gaiters
Sun hat
Climbing shoes
Climbing pants
Ice Axe
Climbing harness
3 x Screwgate carabiner
Belay device
Climbing helmet
Crampons
25-30 litres rucksack
Lanyard
60 cm tape sling or cordelette for prusik
Sunglasses
Water bottle - Ideally two 1L bottles
Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)
UIAGM / IFMGA mountain guide - a fully qualified and experienced Chamex guide will accompany you for the duration of your trip.
Ropes, safety equipment, etc will be provided when needed by your guide.
Our team is based at the foot of the Aiguillle du Midi cable car and will be happy to help you with any questions you may have before, during or after your trip to Chamonix.
We will advise you on which lift passes you will need prior to your trip. If lift passes are required we can preorder them for you on request.