Grand Capucin is a flawless rock pinnacle in the middle of the Vallee Blance. The Swiss Route is 300+ m of superb crack climbing of up to 6b climbing difficulty and A1 (7B free climbing).

GRAND CAPUCIN, VOIE DES SUISSES (3838M)

300+ m of superb crack climbing of up to 6b climbing difficulty and A1 (7B free climbing).

From 850.00€
   

Expert tech level

 

Fitness level 5/5

 

1 day climb

 

Available June - September

Gran Capucin is a tall, steep rock pinnacle made of compact and nicely sculptured granite. With the summit at 3 838m, it offers superb and challenging high altitude rock climbing of difficulties ranging from 6a+ to 8a+. 

The Swiss Route was first climbed in 1956 by Claude Asper, Marcel Bron, Mario Grossi and Marcel Morel. It may be one of the earliest and more popular of routes established, but it is by no means easy! 

You can reach the start of the climb either from top of the Punta Helbronner lift or from the Aiguille du Midi lift. Be prepared for a long day (8 – 10h). Staying in the Torino or Cosmiques hut maybe a good idea to gain more time. It is good idea to be acclimatised in advance for this route. 

The climb itself is around 300m on challenging terrain, it can however be longer if the bergshrund at the base is open. The pitches are as follows: 1) 5c 25m, 2) 6a+ 30m, 3) 5b 35m 4) 5b 35m 5) 6a 40m 6) 6a+ 20m 7) 6b 30m 8) 6a+ 35m 9) 4a 35m 10) 4a 35m. The descent is by abseil. 

The Swiss Route was first climbed in 1956 by Claude Asper, Marcel Bron, Mario Grossi and Marcel Morel. It may be one of the earliest and more popular of routes established, but it is by no means easy! 

You can reach the start of the climb either from top of the Punta Helbronner lift or from the Aiguille du Midi lift. Be prepared for a long day (8 – 10h). Staying in the Torino or Cosmiques hut maybe a good idea to gain more time. It is good idea to be acclimatised in advance for this route. 

The climb itself is around 300m on challenging terrain, it can however be longer if the bergshrund at the base is open. The pitches are as follows: 1) 5c 25m, 2) 6a+ 30m, 3) 5b 35m 4) 5b 35m 5) 6a 40m 6) 6a+ 20m 7) 6b 30m 8) 6a+ 35m 9) 4a 35m 10) 4a 35m. The descent is by abseil. 

Level Requirements

You have to have the following skills: 

  • Rock climbing level 6b minimum
  • Good skills in safe and quick abseils
  • Be comfortabel and efficient in walking on crampons

Equipment

Clothing

Mountaineering boots

Mountaineering boots

Warm hat

Warm hat

Thermal underwear

Thermal underwear

Fleece or woollen layers

Fleece or woollen layers

Light puffer jacket

Light puffer jacket

Windproof and waterproof jacket

Windproof and waterproof jacket

Thin gloves

Thin gloves

Gaiters

Gaiters

Sun hat

Sun hat

Climbing shoes

Climbing shoes

Climbing pants

Climbing pants

Technical gear

Ice Axe

Ice Axe

Climbing harness

Climbing harness

3 x Screwgate carabiner

3 x Screwgate carabiner

Belay device

Belay device

Climbing helmet

Climbing helmet

Crampons

Crampons

25-30 litres rucksack

25-30 litres rucksack

Lanyard

Lanyard

60 cm tape sling or cordelette for prusik

60 cm tape sling or cordelette for prusik

Other essentials

Sunglasses

Sunglasses

Water bottle - Ideally two 1L bottles

Water bottle - Ideally two 1L bottles

Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)

Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)

Included or not

Included

Guide Fee

UIAGM / IFMGA mountain guide - a fully qualified and experienced Chamex guide will accompany you for the duration of your trip.

Group Equipment

Ropes, safety equipment, etc will be provided when needed by your guide.

Office Support

Our team is based at the foot of the Aiguillle du Midi cable car and will be happy to help you with any questions you may have before, during or after your trip to Chamonix.

Not Included

Lift Passes

We will advise you on which lift passes you will need prior to your trip. If lift passes are required we can preorder them for you on request.