Fantastic classic route on high altitude quality granite. It offers very varied climbing: slabs, cracks and laybacks. The south facing exposure and easy access place this climb on top of every climber’s wish list.

RéBUFFAT – BAQUET ROUTE, AIGUILLE DU MIDI (3842 M)

Superb rock, magnificent views and fun climbing

From 450.00€

Price per guide for a group of 2 climbers maximum

   

Advanced tech level

 

Fitness level 3/5

 

1 day climb

 

1:2 guiding ratio

 

Available May - October

Climbed for the first time in 1956 by Maurice Baquet and the famous Gaston Rébuffat, this route offers fantastic climbing on high quality and well structured alpine granite. 

The 200m itinerary follows the line of an obvious and varied meandering crack in the face of an impressive towering red wall.

The second pitch is where you will encounter the famous S shaped crack, just below a protruding roof section, involving some precision moves and good footwork.

The pitches that follow are varied and interesting and will certainly put your arms and grip skills to the test during some of the more athletic moves. 

The summit of the route tops out at 3800m, just next to the Aiguille du Midi lift station where you will be greeted by truly exceptional views of the surrounding glaciers and 4000m peaks.

After two short abseils, you will be back on the ground with both feet and firmly planted on the reassuring terraces of the Aiguille du Midi lift station, right in the middle of the crowds of tourists who will not fail to congratulate you on your ascent. A real hero moment, to be savoured.

The "Rébuffat" route is a total classic and an absolutely must for any keen granite climber in the Mont Blanc massif. To avoid overcrowding on the route we therefore recommend an early start.

Don't be fooled by the height and the modest grade ratings of this climb in the guide book. This is a demanding route requiring some skills. Moreover it is poorly equipped in places except for the belays, which makes the route more of a challenge, using protections that consist of pitons, straps and friends.

Itinerary

This is a one-day climb. You will start early to catch the first lift up to Aiguille du Midi. From the top lift station, you will put on your crampons to descend down the summit ridge and walk to the base of the climb (15min). From there you climb (9 pitches) to the summit and directly to the lift station. Easy! 

Level Requirements

Technical level

Multi pitch rock climbing experience is obligatory for this climb. You need to be able to follow French 6a and be familiar with crack climbing techniques. You need to be familiar with using crampons and ice axe as the approach is on glacier (you need to descend the short but steep and exposed summit ridge of the Aiguille du Midi). 

Physical level

The climb is 200m on vertical wall with 6a / 6b passages. While there are no overhangs and climbing is mostly on your feet, you need to have the stamina for technical climbing at nearly 4000m altitude! 

Equipment

Clothing

Mountaineering boots

Mountaineering boots

Thermal underwear

Thermal underwear

Fleece or woollen layers

Fleece or woollen layers

Light puffer jacket

Light puffer jacket

Windproof and waterproof jacket

Windproof and waterproof jacket

Thin gloves

Thin gloves

Climbing shoes

Climbing shoes

Climbing pants

Climbing pants

Technical gear

Ice Axe

Ice Axe

Climbing harness

Climbing harness

3 x Screwgate carabiner

3 x Screwgate carabiner

Crampons

Crampons

25-30 litres rucksack

25-30 litres rucksack

Lanyard

Lanyard

60 cm tape sling or cordelette for prusik

60 cm tape sling or cordelette for prusik

Belay device

Belay device

Climbing helmet

Climbing helmet

Other essentials

Sunglasses

Sunglasses

Water bottle - Ideally two 1L bottles

Water bottle - Ideally two 1L bottles

Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)

Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)

Included or not

Included

Guide Fee

UIAGM / IFMGA mountain guide - a fully qualified and experienced Chamex guide will accompany you for the duration of your trip.

Group Equipment

Ropes, safety equipment, etc will be provided when needed by your guide.

Not Included

Personal Equipment

Please see the "Equipment" tab to find out what you will need on this trip / course.  For private customised guiding, please contact us directly to confirm your personalised kit list.

Lift Passes

We will advise you on which lift passes you will need prior to your trip. If lift passes are required we can preorder them for you on request.

Insurance

Travel insurance including a mountain search and rescue insurance is mandatory on all our trips (we can organise the mountai search and rescue insurance for you on request). We highly advice to have a policy covering the cost of medical treatment and to protect the value of your holiday in the event of cancellation. When taking out insurance please ensure the policy you choose covers you for the activities and altitude included in your itinerary.