NEW COURSE FOR 2018
The Mountain Progression Course is designed as a follow up to our Level 1 course, or as continued education and practice for alpinists with some experience. The move toward autonomy in the high mountains and towards more committing and technically difficult mountaineering are the focus of this week. Our UIAGM mountain guides accompany you along the way, with custom tailored route selection and personal attention. You develop more quickly, safely, and can look forward to climbing the Alps’ bigger routes.
There is a particular emphasis on pedagogy- your progress as an alpinist is our priority. You’ll learn new, more intricate techniques to complement your alpine portfolio. Special attention to safety, efficiency, and the correct application of given techniques on different types of terrain. Ice, rock, mixed, and steep snow, as well as safe glacier travel and crevasse rescue are included in the cursus- a well rounded, advanced alpine experience for students of the mountains! The ratio of client to guide is reduced to 1 guide per 2 clients from the 2nd day forward to insure you get the best possible tutorship during the week.
Course Content/ Objectives:Refinement of rock, snow, ice and mixed techniques Correct tying and appropriate use of essential climbing knots Correct use of the rope on the glacier, rock arète/ crests, climbing a bergschrund, and pulley systems used in crevasse rescue Recognizing placement, building and using anchors in varied terrain types (ice, snow, rock)- deadman and special anchors Installing and descending rappels in autonomy, with the use of a prussik on multi-pitch climbs Placement and removal of “natural” or “traditional” protection (cams, wired nuts, ice screws) Course planning, analysis of the weather forecast and mountain conditions, evaluation of group ability Gear choice adapted to the chosen objective and preparation of the backpack Risk assessment in the mountains and good decision making Orientation, choosing an itinerary and reading the terrain in the field
This is the logical follow up to our Level 1 Mountain Progression course, or for participants with some experience in the mountains, without necessarily having already lead a climb or an excursion in the mountains. The basics concepts, some previous training, and prior use of material (rock shoes, crampons, ice axe) in rock climbing, ice climbing and general mountaineering are prerequisite. One should be able to follow French grade 5 on rock (5.8+), grade 4 ice, and up to M3 or French AD+ in the mountains. Appropriate physical conditioning is needed – the ability to move in the mountains for 6-8 hours at a regular, sustained pace without excessive suffering, over the week’s duration.
Day 1- 1:4
Day 2- 1:2
Day 3- 1:2
Day 4- 1:2
Day 5- 1:2