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A3

Summer Alpine Climbing Course - Level 3

NEW COURSE FOR 2018

Our Mountain Advanced Course - Level 3 is the door to the biggest, most demanding routes. The curriculum is focused on pushing your limits to achieve more exclusive summits by honing your abilities. Specific, personal coaching on your technical climbing ability and your aptitude with climbing equipment allow you to gain a good level of autonomy on more committing climbs. It is the logical follow up to the Level 1 and 2 courses- the gradual progression toward becoming a mountaineer.

 The objective of the Level 3 is to improve and perfect a solid basic alpine skill set. The Alps are full of great routes for climbers of all abilities- the world’s best alpinist frequent the Chamonix valley for quick access to cutting edge terrain. This allows your UIAGM guide to find the perfect route for you- stretching your capacities and providing a rich learning ground. You’ll participate in the planning, function, and safety measures necessary to climb big, high altitude itineraries.

 To accomplish this the guide to client ratio is always 1:2, or 1:1 depending on the routes chosen. The result is an efficient and performance oriented alpine team. The week’s program targets big, remote routes, 4000m summits, and big alpine granite rock climbs. Big routes, big mountains, big fun!


Course Outcomes

  • Perfecting technical skills and moving efficiently on high altitude rock, ice, and mixed terrain
  • Advanced belay and safety measures on varied terrain
  • Learning to be autonomous on traditional, naturally protected routes. (Natural anchors, reinforcing existing anchors, posing and extracting cams and wired stoppers)
  • Special techniques (losing a belay device, ascending a rope)
  • Vertical rescue technique (escaping a belay, descending with an injured climber)
  • Complete preparation and realization of a multi day, high mountain itinerary. (Planning, orientation, reading mountain conditions, identifying risk, decision making)
  • Logistics and material necessary for a bivouac

 

Description

The level 3 course aims to improve and perfect personal skills in the high mountains, climbing some of the bigger routes around the Alps. The goal is to transform from an advanced second on the rope to a safe, secure, and confident lead climber. A good alpinist progresses by making decisions with accurate terrain, weather, and group evaluation, while using efficient and appropriate techniques on rock, ice, and mixed ground of all difficulties. 

Level Requirements:

This week is tailored for climbers who have completed the Mountain Progression courses 1 and 2, or have acquired solid and consistent experience in the mountains. The week requires an autonomy on each type of alpine terrain. One should be able to belay, rappel, and climb in a safe and efficient manner on rock, snow, and mixed routes. Familiarity climbing with rock shoes or mountain boots on alpine rock, and with crampons and ice axe on mixed ground. You should be able to follow up to French level 5 in mountain boots, French 6b (5.10+) in rock shoes, and mixed/ alpine French grade D (M4+). The prerequisite physical condition allows movement in the high mountains for 8-10 hours at a continuous pace. for consecutive days, on route grades as described above. If you need advice for preparing for your course, or are curious about your own level relative to the course requirements don’t hesitate to contact us. We’ll help as best we can.

Ratio Guide/client

Day 1- 1:2

Day 2- Day 5- 1:2 or 1:1 depending on the selected climbs

Price

1890€

Price per person for minimum of 2 and maximum of 4 participants.

Course Dates

2018
Start Date End Date Spaces
Jun 11 Jun 15 4
Jun 25 Jun 29 4
Jul 09 Jul 13 4
Jul 23 Jul 27 4
Aug 13 Aug 17 4
Aug 27 Aug 31 4
Sep 10 Sep 14 4

G
  The Course is guaranteed to run


Included

Guide Fees

5 days of guiding and instruction by a UIAGM qualified mountain guide.

Accommodation (half-board)

1 night in a mountain hut with breakfast and dinner included.

Local Transport

Any local transport that is required during your course.

Group Equipment

Ropes, safety equipment, etc will be provided when needed by your guide.

Office Support

Our team is based at the foot of the Aiguille du Midi cable car and will be happy to help you with any questions you may have before, during or after your trip to Chamonix.

Not Included

Lift passes

To keep the itinerary flexible, we do not include the lift passes in the course price. We will advise you what lift passes you will need on day to day basis and organise them for you. The total price will vary depending on the weather, conditions and the selected climbs (about 200€ maximum). 

Accommodation

Accommodation in Chamonix is not included in the price but we would be happy to advise or organise it on request.

Travel to Chamonix

The price does not include flights, airport transfers or any other travel to/from Chamonix. However, we can organise airport transfers for you on request, please contact us for details.

Equipment

Please see the "Equipment" tab to find out what you will need. Anything that you do not already have can be rented here in Chamonix, if there is anything you need then please contact us and we will be happy to organise it for you.

For private customised guiding, please contact us directly to confirm your persoanlised kit list.

Food & Drink

The price does not include lunch or snacks. You can bring your own food and we can stop for a picnic, or there may be the option to buy lunch at a mountain hut. Please make sure that you are carrying sufficient water and snacks as we will be in the mountains for a number of hours.

Insurance

We strongly recommend that you take our Search and Rescue mountain insurance - we can organise this for you on request.

The described program is an example from which to draw ideas. It envisions a perfect week, with fit clients and good weather, as well as correct mountain conditions. You’ll decide with your guide which routes are best given all the different variables, to allow for a fun, educative week. 

Arrival day

Rendez-vous with your guide in the evening before the course begins. The guide will answer your questions to start out the week smoothly. 

Day 1

Multi-pitch rock climbing in the Aiguilles Rouges or from the Plan de l’Aiguille. Classic Chamonix- lift accessed rock climbing allows us to kick start the week. An endless choice of routes, both bolted and traditional, allows the guide personalize your day according to your needs, optimizing your time and getting the roped teams coordinated for the rest of the course. Rock climbing skills, placement and removal of cams and wired stoppers, rope organization, anchors, and safe lead climbing methods are all covered. 

Day 2

Mixed climbing from the Aiguille du Midi! More classic, hard, alpine terrain. Gully mixed climbing on snow, rock and ice, with the application of techniques previously learned and an emphasis on the specific skills used on ice and in high mountain climbing. 

Day 3

High altitude granite! Some of the best climbing in the world- lift accessed granite crags in the Mt. Blanc range are among the best anywhere. The Salluard on the Point Adolph Rey, the Lepiney on the Trident du Tacul, or the Contamine on the Pointe Lachenal - Chamonix’s finest granite cracks beckon! The emphasis isn’t solely on the lovely climbing and working your crack climbing skills, but also on the placement of protection, building anchors, doing multiple rappels and moving safely and efficiently over alpine rock.   

 

Days 4 & 5

You’re off into the mountains for a 2 day ascent of a big route in the Alps, with a night in a high mountain hut. The objective- put everything together for an ascent of one of the best lines in Chamonix (or elsewhere depending on the conditions and the team’s goals). It could be a long mixed route or a brilliant alpine arète. Some examples- The Forbes arete or the Eperon Migot on the Aiguille du Chardonnet, The Aretes du Diable or the Kufner Arete on the Mt. Maudit, traverse of La Meige, Traverse of the Breithorn or the Lyskam, etc.

You’ll actively participate in the route planning and the route ascent. All your skills are put to the test, and your guide’s input helps steepen the learning curve. An unforgettable ascent and an important stepping stone toward becoming a competent alpinist. 

Clothing

Mountaineering boots

Mountaineering boots

Warm hat

Warm hat

Thermal underwear

Thermal underwear

Fleece or woollen layers

Fleece or woollen layers

Light puffer jacket

Light puffer jacket

Windproof and waterproof jacket

Windproof and waterproof jacket

Windproof and waterproof trousers

Windproof and waterproof trousers

Warm gloves

Warm gloves

Thin gloves

Thin gloves

Gaiters

Gaiters

Sun hat

Sun hat

Climbing shoes

Climbing shoes

Climbing pants

Climbing pants

Technical gear

Ice Axe

Ice Axe

Harness

Harness

Telescopic poles

Telescopic poles

Screwgate carabiner

Screwgate carabiner

60 - 120 cm tape sling

60 - 120 cm tape sling

Belay device

Belay device

Climbing helmet

Climbing helmet

35 - 45 litres rucksack

35 - 45 litres rucksack

Pair of technical ice axes

Pair of technical ice axes

Crampons

Crampons

Extras

Sunglasses

Sunglasses

Water bottle (1 litre minimum)

Water bottle (1 litre minimum)

Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)

Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)

Headlamp with fresh batteries

Headlamp with fresh batteries

Sleeping bag liner

Sleeping bag liner