NEW COURSE FOR 2018
Our Mountain Advanced Course - Level 3 is the door to the biggest, most demanding routes. The curriculum is focused on pushing your limits to achieve more exclusive summits by honing your abilities. Specific, personal coaching on your technical climbing ability and your aptitude with climbing equipment allow you to gain a good level of autonomy on more committing climbs. It is the logical follow up to the Level 1 and 2 courses- the gradual progression toward becoming a mountaineer.
The objective of the Level 3 is to improve and perfect a solid basic alpine skill set. The Alps are full of great routes for climbers of all abilities- the world’s best alpinist frequent the Chamonix valley for quick access to cutting edge terrain. This allows your UIAGM guide to find the perfect route for you- stretching your capacities and providing a rich learning ground. You’ll participate in the planning, function, and safety measures necessary to climb big, high altitude itineraries.
To accomplish this the guide to client ratio is always 1:2, or 1:1 depending on the routes chosen. The result is an efficient and performance oriented alpine team. The week’s program targets big, remote routes, 4000m summits, and big alpine granite rock climbs. Big routes, big mountains, big fun!
Course OutcomesPerfecting technical skills and moving efficiently on high altitude rock, ice, and mixed terrain Advanced belay and safety measures on varied terrain Learning to be autonomous on traditional, naturally protected routes. (Natural anchors, reinforcing existing anchors, posing and extracting cams and wired stoppers) Special techniques (losing a belay device, ascending a rope) Vertical rescue technique (escaping a belay, descending with an injured climber) Complete preparation and realization of a multi day, high mountain itinerary. (Planning, orientation, reading mountain conditions, identifying risk, decision making) Logistics and material necessary for a bivouac
The level 3 course aims to improve and perfect personal skills in the high mountains, climbing some of the bigger routes around the Alps. The goal is to transform from an advanced second on the rope to a safe, secure, and confident lead climber. A good alpinist progresses by making decisions with accurate terrain, weather, and group evaluation, while using efficient and appropriate techniques on rock, ice, and mixed ground of all difficulties.
This week is tailored for climbers who have completed the Mountain Progression courses 1 and 2, or have acquired solid and consistent experience in the mountains. The week requires an autonomy on each type of alpine terrain. One should be able to belay, rappel, and climb in a safe and efficient manner on rock, snow, and mixed routes. Familiarity climbing with rock shoes or mountain boots on alpine rock, and with crampons and ice axe on mixed ground. You should be able to follow up to French level 5 in mountain boots, French 6b (5.10+) in rock shoes, and mixed/ alpine French grade D (M4+). The prerequisite physical condition allows movement in the high mountains for 8-10 hours at a continuous pace. for consecutive days, on route grades as described above. If you need advice for preparing for your course, or are curious about your own level relative to the course requirements don’t hesitate to contact us. We’ll help as best we can.
Day 1- 1:2
Day 2- Day 5- 1:2 or 1:1 depending on the selected climbs