Climb one of the most beautiful snow ridges in the Alps. This exciting long ridge will allow you to traverse the two summits of Lyskamm in the heart of Monte Rosa range and enjoy the amazing views over all of the Valais 4000m mountains.

TITLE LYSKAMM TRAVERSE

Climb Lyskamm (4527m) traverse, the most interesting ridge in the Monte Rosa range.

From 0.00€
   

Advanced tech level

 

Climb over 2 days

 

Available June - September

 

Guide Ratio 1:1

 

1 night in a hut

First climbed by EN Buxton, L Stephen with mountain guides J Anderegg and F Binner in 1864.

The traverse is rated AD. There are some steep snow slopes (45º) and a rocky scramble crux rated II+. 

We start from the village of Gressoney-La-Trinité in Italy’s Aosta Valley, a village that is also known as a ski freeride paradise. We will take a gondola up to Colle di Bettaforca and walk 3h up to the Quintino Sella Hut, well situated at the edge of the Felik Glacier at 3598m. An alpine start will see us reaching 4000m at dawn; from there we will follow the long snow ridge, sometimes sharp and corniced, all the way to the summit of Lyskamm West at 4479m then across and towards the highest point of Lyskamm East at 4527m. An exhilarating descent brings us to the broad Lys Col and then down the nice easy south slopes to the Gnifetti Hut, and onwards until we reach the Punta Indren Gondola that will take us down to the starting point after completing an amazing traverse of the mountain.

This climb is one of the most iconic snow ridges in the Alps; it can be climbed from west to east, but also from east to west so as to combine this climb with an ascent of the nearby Monte Rosa or Castor. This ascent will sharpen your snow climbing skills, and will be especially beneficial for those aspiring to attempt big mountain expeditions. It will give you excellent acclimation for your next alpine climb.

 

Itinerary

Arrival in Chamonix

The trip starts with a meeting at our office in Chamonix the evening before we set off for the village of Gressoney. You will meet your mountain guide, check your equipment, and have the opportunity to ask any questions. Your guide will give you an idea of weather forecast and the current mountain conditions and will explain all details about the trip. 

Day 1

We drive from Chamonix to the beautiful village of Gressoney in Italy’s Aosta valley. You may have already heard of Gressoney as a freeride ski paradise. Around noon we take the gondola up to Colle di Bettaforca at 2700m and walk up for about 3h to the Quintino Sella Hut, ideally placed on the edge of the Felik Glacier at 3598m, where we will spend the night.

Day 2

We begin at 4am and hike up the glacier, arriving at the top of Felik Col at 4000m in time to set off up the ridge at dawn and enjoy the amazing view over the majestic mountains above Zermatt. The ridge, steep and corniced in places, will take us to the summit of Lyskamm West at 4479m. From here we continue toward the highest summit, Lyskamm East at 4527m. An exhilarating descent brings us to the broad Lys Col and then down the nice easy south slopes to the Gnifetti Hut, and onwards until we reach the Punta Indren Gondola that will take us down to the starting point after completing an amazing traverse of the mountain. We return to Chamonix by car in the evening.

Level Requirements

The Lyskamm traverse is a serious undertaking. You will need to have solid mountaineering experience over snow and mixed terrain, and very good crampon technique in particular. If you have previously climbed routes such as Mittelegi ridge on Eiger, Piz Bernina Biancograt or Rochefort Arête, this route is for you. Because of the length of the climb way above 4000m and the level of focus required for this climb, an excellent level of fitness as well of some sort of previous acclimation to altitude is required.

Equipment

Clothing

Mountaineering boots

Mountaineering boots

Warm hat

Warm hat

Thermal underwear

Thermal underwear

Fleece or woollen layers

Fleece or woollen layers

Light puffer jacket

Light puffer jacket

Windproof and waterproof jacket

Windproof and waterproof jacket

Windproof and waterproof trousers

Windproof and waterproof trousers

Warm gloves

Warm gloves

Thin gloves

Thin gloves

Gaiters

Gaiters

Sun hat

Sun hat

Technical gear

Ice Axe

Ice Axe

Harness

Harness

Telescopic poles

Telescopic poles

3 x Screwgate carabiner

3 x Screwgate carabiner

Belay device

Belay device

Climbing helmet

Climbing helmet

Crampons

Crampons

25-30 litres rucksack

25-30 litres rucksack

Lanyard

Lanyard

60 cm tape sling or cordelette for prusik

60 cm tape sling or cordelette for prusik

Extras

Sunglasses

Sunglasses

Water bottle (1 litre minimum)

Water bottle (1 litre minimum)

Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)

Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)

Headlamp with fresh batteries

Headlamp with fresh batteries

Sleeping bag liner

Sleeping bag liner

Earplugs

Earplugs

Included or not

Included

Not Included