Local’s guide to Chamonix Freeride
Skiing in Chamonix: A Guide to Off-Piste, Touring & Freeride with a Local Expert
Discover the Magic of Skiing in Chamonix
I’m Sébastien Corret—most people call me “Bastiou.” I’ve been skiing and snowboarding in the Chamonix Valley for over 20 years, and guiding with Chamex for more than a decade. This article is the first in a series where I’ll share insights into Chamonix’s diverse ski areas, from sun-soaked couloirs to secret freeride lines.
In this first part, we’ll explore three major ski zones on the sunny side of the Chamonix Valley: Le Brévent, La Flégère, and Domaine de Balme (Le Tour).
Why Ski in Chamonix?
Skiing in Chamonix is unlike any other alpine resort. While it offers marked pistes, the true soul of the valley lies off-piste—on the steep flanks, couloirs, and glaciers of the Mont Blanc Massif.
Even beginner slopes here, like those at Flégère, can surprise you with their inclination. The terrain is steeper, the weather is wilder, and the skiing is better. Whether you love freeride lines, ski touring adventures, or steep descents, Chamonix is a mecca for alpine skiing.
Brévent: Steep Couloirs & Off-Piste Classics
Perched directly above Chamonix on the southern side of the valley, in the heart of the Aiguilles Rouges (Red Needles), lies the Brévent ski area—a favorite among locals and one of the best places to experience off-piste skiing in Chamonix, especially early in the season.
Brévent is known for its long, steep couloirs that cut dramatic lines through the spruce forest, descending all the way into town. These iconic descents—such as the Bellin Couloir, ENSA Couloir, and Poste à Payot—start from the top cable car station at 2,500 meters and offer an uninterrupted vertical drop of up to 1,500 meters. Even the most seasoned skiers will feel the burn by the bottom.
These consistent and relatively steep pitches are ideal for building confidence in steep skiing. As always in freeride terrain, snow quality is as important as gradient, and the Autel Face delivers on both. Its east-facing orientation ensures cold, dry snow early in the season, while later in winter, the morning sun gradually transforms hardpack into more forgiving spring conditions.
Whether you’re chasing early-season powder or refining your off-piste technique, Brévent offers some of the most rewarding skiing in Chamonix—a place where every turn counts and local knowledge is everything.
Best Off-Piste Routes at Brévent:
- Freeride: Beneath the Plan Praz gondola—if cold and well-filled—are playful off-piste lines perfect for freeriders.
- Ski Touring / Splitboarding: From the top station, descend to Pont d’Arlevé and climb 700m to Pointe Noire de Pormenaz, followed by a scenic descent through the Chorde couloir.
- Steep Skiing: The ENSA, Bellin, and Poste à Payot couloirs offer long, steep descents up to 1500m vertical drop.
Insider Tip:
The Autel face (or Hotel face as known by many), accessible via a short bootpack, was the site of early freeride competitions and remains a great spot for steep skiing and variable snow conditions.
La Flégère: Touring Paradise with Panoramic Views
Located on the same (south-facing) side of the valley as Brévent, La Flégère is easily accessed from Les Praz or via the Liaison cable car from Le Brévent. With stunning views of the Aiguilles de Chamonix, this area is a top destination for both off-piste skiing and ski touring in Chamonix.
During the early winter months, Flégère is known for its forest freeride lines, including a number of lesser-known or secret runs that locals love. As spring approaches and the snowpack stabilises, Flégère becomes a key launch point for our ski touring courses and classic backcountry itineraries with our private ski tourin guides.
Among these, the Col des Dards stands out as one of the best beginner-friendly ski tours in the Chamonix Valley. Whether you’re on skis or a splitboard, the approach is moderate in length, scenic, and varied. The route passes by the iconic Lac Blanc and finishes with a descent over rolling, undulating terrain with a mix of aspects—ideal for finding good snow, even in challenging conditions.
For those looking to combine accessible ski touring with breathtaking alpine scenery, La Flégère offers one of the finest introductions to backcountry skiing in Chamonix.
Top Routes at Flégère:
- Freeride: First tracks in the Combe Lachenal, linked with the Golf Couloir.
- Ski Touring: The Crochues-Bérard Traverse, Col du Belvédère, and Col des Dards are ideal spring tours. The Col des Dards is especially good for beginners.
- Steep Skiing: The North Face of the Aiguille de Mesure offers a technical, rewarding descent.
Insider Tip:
Start at Charlanon chairlift, skin up to the Col de la Glière, then descend through “Petite Alaska”—a freeride World Tour zone.
Domaine de Balme (Le Tour): Variety, Trees & Hidden Powder Stashes
Further east in the Chamonix Valley lies the Balme area, reaching its highest point along the French-Swiss border. This unique ski zone offers two very distinct faces: the western side features moderate slopes—never exceeding red runs—perfect for carving and confident cruising.
For those seeking adventure, Balme is a prime destination for off-piste courses and technical freeride terrain. The north-facing couloirs of La Vormaine deliver short, steep lines that lead back to the base of the resort. Opposite, the eastern slopes of Les Posettes offer varied, hilly terrain ideal for building confidence in off-piste skiing and splitboarding. The expansive forests behind the resort invite riders to explore numerous steep and technical lines accessible from the Esserts chairlift.
From the top of Esserts, our experienced ski guides at CHAMEX lead enthusiasts to a freerider’s playground. A brief 10-minute boot pack brings you to the “Tête de l’Arolette,” where three steep couloirs and a gentler slope kick off thrilling descents into the Combe des Jeurs. Adventurous skiers can be guided along stunning itineraries such as the beginner-friendly “Le Nant Noir” or the more demanding “Couloir du Van” and “Orvé,” reserved for expert skiers. The secretive North Face of the Grandes Autannes is also worth mentioning—long after snowfall, it still holds some of the coldest, most coveted powder in the valley.
This wild and secluded area is far from the crowds, and many routes end in Switzerland. In the picturesque village of Trient, a taxi awaits to bring you back to France and the lifts in Vallorcine. A perfect day in Balme often finishes with a run through the steep forest couloirs on the north side of Les Posettes, featuring multiple lines and an exhilarating 800-meter descent to the hamlet of Le Buet. Traditionally, riders end the day with a well-earned beer at the Hotel du Buet, before taking the free train back to Chamonix.
Whether you’re seeking expert freeride courses, splitboard courses, or private ski guiding, Domaine de Balme offers an exceptional playground for all levels looking to master off-piste skills in a stunning alpine setting
Highlights at Le Tour:
- Freeride: Explore La Vormaine’s north-facing couloirs or the Posettes forest lines—great for confidence-building.
- Touring: Bootpack to the Tête de l’Arolette for access to Combe des Jeurs, Couloir du Van, or even Le Nant Noir.
- Steep Skiing: The Grandes Autannes north face holds cold powder long after storms.
Unique Ending:
Descents often finish in Switzerland, in the charming village of Trient, where a taxi brings you back to France. Don’t miss a final run down the forests of Les Posettes—an 800m descent to Le Buet, followed by a celebratory beer and a free train ride back to Chamonix.
A Living Ski Museum: Chamonix’s History on Snow
Skiing in Chamonix began in the late 1800s with Dr. Payot, who pioneered alpine travel on skis. In 1903, he was part of the first ski crossing from Chamonix to Zermatt—what we now know as the Haute Route.
By the 1920s, Chamonix hosted the first Winter Olympics. Post-war cable car construction, including the Aiguille du Midi lift in 1955, transformed Chamonix into the world-class ski destination it is today.
Skiing in Chamonix: What Makes It Different
- The ski areas aren’t connected, so you’ll use public transport to move between them.
- You can’t ski directly into town like in some resorts.
- But that’s the point: Chamonix is a real mountain town first, and a ski resort second.
Whether you’re here to ski powder, tour glaciers, or tackle steep faces, Chamonix offers depth, diversity, and raw beauty that few places can match.
Ski with a Private Guide in Chamonix
Want to unlock the full potential of skiing in Chamonix? Our private ski guides at Chamex know every couloir, tree stash, and touring route in the valley. We’ll help you:
- Find the best snow (even days after a storm)
- Avoid crowded slopes
- Improve your off-piste and steep skiing technique
- Stay safe in dynamic mountain terrain
Conclusion: Are You Ready for Winter in Chamonix?
The gear is appearing in shop windows. Skis are being waxed. The promise of fresh snow is in the air. Whether you’re a first-timer or a seasoned skier, skiing in Chamonix will challenge and inspire you.
Let’s make this winter one to remember.