Rebuffat – Baquet Route, Aiguille du Midi (3842m)
Why Climb the Rebuffat Baquet Route on the Aiguille du Midi?
First climbed in 1956 by Maurice Baquet and the legendary Gaston Rébuffat, the Rebuffat Baquet route on the Aiguille du Midi is a classic alpine granite climb in the Mont Blanc massif. This 200 m route follows a meandering, well-structured crack in a striking red granite face, offering varied and engaging climbing.
The second pitch features the famous S-shaped crack below a roof, requiring precise moves and strong footwork. Subsequent pitches are equally varied, testing your grip strength and technical skills on athletic moves, making it a full and rewarding alpine climbing experience.
The route tops out at 3800 m near the Aiguille du Midi lift station, where climbers are treated to breathtaking views of surrounding glaciers and iconic 4000 m peaks. After two short abseils, you descend safely to the terraces of the lift station, receiving congratulations from onlookers—a memorable alpine hero moment.
Despite its moderate grade and modest height on paper, the Rebuffat Baquet climb is demanding. The route is sparsely protected except for belays, requiring climbers to place pitons, straps, and friends along the way. To avoid overcrowding and fully enjoy the experience, an early start is recommended.
A true must-do for granite enthusiasts, this climb offers a combination of technical challenge, history, and stunning alpine scenery in the heart of Chamonix.
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Fitness level 2/4
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Dates on demand
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Guiding ratio 1:2
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2 climbers per guide maximum
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1 day climb
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Available May – October
Itinerary
This is a one-day climb. You will start early to catch the first lift up to Aiguille du Midi. From the top lift station, you will put on your crampons to descend down the summit ridge and walk to the base of the climb (15min). From there you climb (9 pitches) to the summit and directly to the lift station. Easy!
Level requirements
Technical level
Multi pitch rock climbing experience is obligatory for this climb. You need to be able to follow French 6a and be familiar with crack climbing techniques. You need to be familiar with using crampons and ice axe as the approach is on glacier (you need to descend the short but steep and exposed summit ridge of the Aiguille du Midi).
Physical level
The climb is 200m on vertical wall with 6a / 6b passages. While there are no overhangs and climbing is mostly on your feet, you need to have the stamina for technical climbing at nearly 4000m altitude!
Guide Fee
UIAGM / IFMGA mountain guide – a fully qualified and experienced Chamex guide will accompany you for the duration of your trip.
Group Equipment
Ropes, safety equipment, etc will be provided when needed by your guide.
Not included in price
Personal Equipment
Please see the “Equipment” tab to find out what you will need on this trip / course. For private customised guiding, please contact us directly to confirm your personalised kit list.
Lift Passes
We will advise you on which lift passes you will need prior to your trip. If lift passes are required we can preorder them for you on request.
Insurance
Travel insurance including a mountain search and rescue insurance is mandatory on all our trips (we can organise the mountai search and rescue insurance for you on request). We highly advice to have a policy covering the cost of medical treatment and to protect the value of your holiday in the event of cancellation. When taking out insurance please ensure the policy you choose covers you for the activities and altitude included in your itinerary.