Monte Rosa – Mont Blanc course

Mont Blanc is a relatively technical and physically very demanding climb. You have to be able to move over uneven terrain with some steep sections and some scrambling pitches. You have to be able to hike and climb over such terrain for about 8 hours at a good and steady pace without being too tired the next day.

If you have some previous mountain climbing experience, such as Kilimanjaro or Aconcagua, it is great. But you should expect a far greater physical and technical challenge on the Mont Blanc climb.
However, we do accept beginners on this course and the first 3 days are allocated for acclimatisation and alpine training, which is specific for the challenge of climbing Mont Blanc. We will train you in crampon and ice axe techniques, glacier travel, and other important safety skills. As long as you are fit and have good stamina, you should not be disadvantaged by a lack of climbing experience.

Regular hiking and/or long distance running, swimming and/or cycling are great forms of training for this course. Remember that you have to include some uphill hiking and/or running – training on flat terrain will not give you the same kind of fitness, however it is better than no training at all! If you live in a city and have limited access to the outdoors, ask for advice at your local gym as many gyms have mountain climbing specific training programs.
If you need further advice on how to prepare for this course, please contact us on info@chamex.com

With regards to conditions, June, early July are good months as there is still good snow cover in the high mountains and risk of rock fall in the Grand Couloir is low.

September is also usually good as the temperatures typically drop in the Autumn and we often have storms helping to top up the  snow levels, in turn stabilising the Grand Couloir once again.

Late July and August are the hottest months in Chamonix and the conditions are often dry. This is bad for climbing Mont Blanc as the snow bridges over the crevasses on the glaciers start to weaken and the Grand Couloir becomes more prone to rock falls.

There is also possibility to climb Mont Blanc in October. The huts and lifts are closed but we can organise a 4X4 taxi to bring you to the top of Bellevue lift. From there you can hike up to the Tete Rousse. You will be staying in the winter room of the hut which is equipped with beds and warm covers. You would have to bring your food with you and cook your dinner, but your guide would help to organise this. The advantage of this period, is that the mountain is pretty quiet as oppose to the main summer season.

The climb is rated PD+. Although not overly technical and the skills required can be learnt during the first 3 days of training, the main challenge stems from it’s pure physicality and altitude.
You do however need to be comfortable with some exposure to heights and be well co-ordinated and efficient moving over rocky and uneven terrain carrying backpack.
For more in depth information on how to prepare and what to expect on this climb, please click here to view our Mont Blanc handbook here.

The climb is very physically demanding, and very commonly under estimated, which is a big mistake, made by many who attempt it.
You will need to train seriously for this challenge and arrive will an excellent level of physical and muscular endurance.
You need to be practicing long distance cardiovascular sports such as running, hiking, cycling and swimming 4-5 times per week, leading up to this challenge.

This can vary depending on the speed of the group, the weather and the mountain conditions at the time of your trip, but usually most groups descend and arrive back in  Chamonix between 12h00 and 16h00 on day 6 of the course (unless unforeseen circumstances, e.g traffic, delay the return).

As with any mountaineering trip, whether that be an undefined general alpine climbing itinerary or more focused summit programme, arriving with flexible mindset is essential.
Bad weather and unfavourable conditions are variables that we just cannot control, so in the event that the objective of Mont Blanc is not possible, your guides will discuss the available options with you and you adapt the itinerary to climb an alternate summit or route.

You will need to book a min of 4 nights accommodation here in central Chamonix on the night before the course starts and on days 2,3 and 6 of the course. You will be staying in mountain huts as part of the course on the nights 1, 4 and 5 of the course.

However, please note that these are high-mountain huts and you may need accommodation in Chamonix if we can not reach the hut in case of bad weather or if you simply can not climb further and have to turn back. Make sure your hotel offers you the flexibility to have a room if needed.

No. The huts provide warm blankets and pillows. You just need to bring with you a lightweight cotton/silk sleeping bag liner for your own personal hygiene.