Meet the Team
The four climbers combine youthful enthusiasm with serious experience. Fleur Fouque and Fanny Schmutz have been close friends since high school and progressed through increasingly difficult alpine climbs together—from the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses to the Intégrale de Peuterey. Both are certified mountain guides, having previously worked as schoolteachers.
Sébastien Rougegré and Damien Tomasi are seasoned professional mountain guides based in Chamonix. Sébastien leads a guiding agency, Chamonix Experience Mountain Guides, while Damien works with the prestigious Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix. Sébastien’s high-altitude experience includes summiting Everest in 2011.
The Birth of the Project
Originally, the group planned to climb the north face of Kwangde Shar (6,093 m), a less-technical and more accessible peak near the village of Tham. However, a last-minute report from fellow climbers alerted them to dry conditions that would make success unlikely. Three days before their planned departure from France, thanks to quick coordination with their agency, the team secured a permit for Ama Dablam instead.
About the Lagunak Ridge
The Lagunak Ridge is the southeast arête of Ama Dablam, a striking Himalayan peak in Nepal’s Khumbu region. The route was first climbed in 1985 by a Spanish-American expedition in a traditional Himalayan style, using around 800 meters of fixed ropes. It was repeated in the 1990s and early 2000s by American and Canadian teams, always in a siege-style approach.
Several alpine-style attempts were made before: Barry Blanchard and his then-wife came close in 2000 but stopped at 6,100 meters; Slovenian alpinists Tomaž Jakofčič and Tina di Batista also tried in 2005 but were forced to retreat by bad weather near 6,500 meters.
The Climb: Technical Highlights
The most challenging climbing begins around 5,600 meters, where the terrain transitions to steep rock sections graded around 5 on the French scale, climbing on some of the finest Himalayan granite.
Above 6,000 meters, climbers face a mixed pitch (grade 5 ice) through massive snow mushrooms leading to the ridge’s snowy section. At 6,200 meters, a technical mixed section rated M4 (two pitches) allows access to a long snow couloir bordered by dangerous snow mushrooms.
Near 6,500 meters, the route exits via an icy ramp over two pitches, again rated at 5, to meet the standard Ama Dablam normal route at 6,600 meters. From there, a steep snow slope around 50 degrees leads directly to the summit.
Alpine Style Success
In just three days, the team moved efficiently, carrying minimal gear and climbing with speed and precision—a stark contrast to the fixed-rope siege-style ascents typical of the region. This lightweight approach allowed them to react flexibly to weather conditions and climb with a purity of style that many Himalayan alpinists admire.
Looking Ahead
This successful alpine-style ascent of the Lagunak Ridge is a milestone in Himalayan climbing, showcasing what motivated and skilled climbers can achieve with modern techniques and teamwork. The route remains a serious challenge, combining technical rock and ice climbing with demanding altitude and exposure.
As Damien Tomasi reflected, this expedition was about seizing opportunities, adapting to changing conditions, and embracing the spirit of alpinism in one of the world’s most iconic mountain ranges.
