Expert tech level |
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Fitness level 5/5 |
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2 days itinerary |
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1 night in a hut |
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Guding ratio 1:1 |
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Available May - July |
The “Aiguilles du Diable” literally Devil’s Spires, are one of Chamonix’s most famous ridge climbs. A comprehensive alpine skill set will be required to complete this amazing traverse that has it all: glacier approach, steep mixed climbing, exposed ridge climb and great rock climbing on perfect granite towers. First climbed in 1928 it became a classic route, which remains high on the wish list of any mountaineer due to its complexity and beauty.
This itinerary is climbed in one day, however you will have to stay in the Torino hut the night before to allow for a very early start.
The approach is a glacier walk towards the Cirque du Maudit from where you will climb to the Col du Diable by the SW couloir. You should reach the Col with the sunrise – probably the best time of the day in the mountains to soak up the views and the atmosphere.
This is where the fun starts! You can put away the crampons and ice axe and enjoy climbing the perfect high alpine rock. The five granite spires composing the Aiguilles du Diable are over 4000m and the climb reaches it’s climax on summit of the Mont Blanc du Tacul.
Corne du Diable (4046 m) Climb the NW ridge to the top of the tower and return by an abseil to the Brèche Chaubert to reach the next tower. This tower is optional and can be skipped if time is tight (4a)
Pointe Chaubert (4074 m) Crack and tricky slab move on the E ridge of the tower (5a) Abseil to the other side of the tower to reach the Brèche Médiane and next tower.
Pointe Médiane (4097 m) A great corner climb 40m with move through a ‘letter box’ to reach the summit (5b). Abseil to the other side to reach Brèche Carmen and the next tower.
Pointe Carmen (4109 m) wide crack (4b) leading to two summits from where you abseil to reach the Brèche du Diable. Scramble to the Brèche de l l'Isolée to reach the next tower.
l'Isolée (4114 m) Climb cracks, corners and flakes (5c) to the summit of the tower and abseil back to the Brèche de l l'Isolée.
From here you have to do a technical, exposed and long scramble to the summit of the Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m) where you pull out your crampons and ice axe for the descent.The descent is by the normal route of the Mont Blanc du Tacul.
Your guide will pick you up or meet you at the Aiguille du Midi lift station. The spectacular Aiguille du Midi lift and the Panoramique lifts will take you to the top of the Helbronner station just next to the Torino hut. Night in the hut.
Another option is to take the Aiguille du Midi lift and trek over the famous Vallee Blanche glacier to the Torino hut.
Early morning start to hike towards the Cirque Maudit passing by the Tour Ronde,to reach foot of the SW couloir leading to the Col du Diable. Climb the couloir to the Col (45 degrees) to reach the start of the towers. Climb the towers to reach the final part of the ridge leading to the summit of the Mont Blanc du Tacul. Descent is by the normal route of the mountain. The fastest way is to return to Chamonix by the Aiguille du Midi lift.
This not a route to be climbed as your first alpine experience. Several alpine mixed routes should be climbed before this one and your climbing CV should be no shorter than 2 years. Very good crampon and ice axe skills are required as well as some ice climbing experience.
You have to be comfortable climbing 5c granite (cracks and slabs) in mountaineering boots. No lead climbing is required.
You have to be confident and quick scrambling up and down over fairly technical and exposed terrain.
This is a long day climbing at high altitude (4000m). You need to be therefore very physically fit and have good stamina to stay strong and focused for the whole day.
Acclimatisation is necessary for this route.
Mountaineering boots
Warm hat
Fleece or woollen layers
Light puffer jacket
Windproof and waterproof jacket
Warm gloves
Thin gloves
Gaiters
Climbing pants
Long sleeve shirt
Ice Axe
Climbing harness
3 x Screwgate carabiner
Belay device
Climbing helmet
Crampons
25-30 litres rucksack
Lanyard
60 cm tape sling or cordelette for prusik
Sunglasses
Water bottle - Ideally two 1L bottles
Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)
Headlamp with fresh batteries
Sleeping bag liner - lightweight
UIAGM / IFMGA mountain guide - a fully qualified and experienced Chamex guide will accompany you for the duration of your trip.
1 night in a mountain hut with breakfast and dinner included.
The cost of any lift access that is required during the course for the itinerary described above.
Ropes, safety equipment, etc will be provided when needed by your guide.
Our team is based at the foot of the Aiguillle du Midi cable car and will be happy to help you with any questions you may have before, during or after your trip to Chamonix.
Please see the "Equipment" tab to find out what you will need on this trip / course. For private customised guiding, please contact us directly to confirm your personalised kit list.
Travel insurance including a mountain search and rescue insurance is mandatory on all our trips (we can organise the mountai search and rescue insurance for you on request). We highly advice to have a policy covering the cost of medical treatment and to protect the value of your holiday in the event of cancellation. When taking out insurance please ensure the policy you choose covers you for the activities and altitude included in your itinerary.
The price does not include lunch or snacks. You can bring your own food and we can stop for a picnic, or there may be the option to buy lunch at a mountain hut. Please make sure that you are carrying sufficient water and snacks as we will be in the mountains for a number of hours.