Fantastic journey of varied and technical ridge climbing at high altitude. Combination of glacier approach, steep mixed climbing, technical granite climbing and summit of the Mont Blanc du Tacul makes this itinerary exceptional and complete.

Exceptional and varied climbing in a wild high mountain environment
Six 4000m summits including granite towers and alpine peak
One of the most beautiful ridges in the Alps

AIGUILLES DU DIABLE, MONT BLANC DU TACUL

A true mountaineering jewel, offering great climbing with six 4000m summits

   

Expert tech level

 

Fitness level 5/5

 

2 days itinerary

 

1 night in a hut

 

Guding ratio 1:1

 

Available May - July

The “Aiguilles du Diable” literally Devil’s Spires, are one of Chamonix’s most famous ridge climbs. A comprehensive alpine skill set will be required to complete this amazing traverse that has it all: glacier approach, steep mixed climbing, exposed ridge climb and great rock climbing on perfect granite towers. First climbed in 1928 it became a classic route, which remains high on the wish list of any mountaineer due to its complexity and beauty. 

This itinerary is climbed in one day, however you will have to stay in the Torino hut the night before to allow for a very early start. 

The approach is a glacier walk towards the Cirque du Maudit from where you will climb to the Col du Diable by the SW couloir. You should reach the Col with the sunrise – probably the best time of the day in the mountains to soak up the views and the atmosphere. 

This is where the fun starts! You can put away the crampons and ice axe and enjoy climbing the perfect high alpine rock. The five granite spires composing the Aiguilles du Diable are over 4000m and the climb reaches it’s climax on summit of the Mont Blanc du Tacul. 

Corne du Diable (4046 m) Climb the NW ridge to the top of the tower and return by an abseil to the Brèche Chaubert to reach the next tower. This tower is optional and can be skipped if time is tight (4a) 

Pointe Chaubert (4074 m) Crack and tricky slab move on the E ridge of the tower (5a) Abseil to the other side of the tower to reach the Brèche Médiane and next tower. 

Pointe Médiane (4097 m) A great corner climb 40m with move through a ‘letter box’ to reach the summit (5b). Abseil to the other side to reach Brèche Carmen and the next tower.

Pointe Carmen (4109 m) wide crack (4b) leading to two summits from where you abseil to reach the Brèche du Diable. Scramble to the Brèche de l l'Isolée to reach the next tower. 

l'Isolée (4114 m) Climb cracks, corners and flakes (5c) to the summit of the tower and abseil back to the Brèche de l l'Isolée. 

From here you have to do a technical, exposed and long scramble to the summit of the Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m) where you pull out your crampons and ice axe for the descent.The descent is by the normal route of the Mont Blanc du Tacul.

Itinerary

D1

Your guide will pick you up or meet you at the Aiguille du Midi lift station. The spectacular Aiguille du Midi lift and the Panoramique lifts will take you to the top of the Helbronner station just next to the Torino hut. Night in the hut. 

Another option is to take the Aiguille du Midi lift and trek over the famous Vallee Blanche glacier to the Torino hut. 

D2

Early morning start to hike towards the Cirque Maudit passing by the Tour Ronde,to reach foot of the SW couloir leading to the Col du Diable. Climb the couloir to the Col (45 degrees) to reach the start of the towers. Climb the towers to reach the final part of the ridge leading to the summit of the Mont Blanc du Tacul. Descent is by the normal route of the mountain. The fastest way is to return to Chamonix by the Aiguille du Midi lift.

Level Requirements

This not a route to be climbed as your first alpine experience. Several alpine mixed routes should be climbed before this one and your climbing CV should be no shorter than 2 years.  Very good crampon and ice axe skills are required as well as some ice climbing experience. 

You have to be comfortable climbing 5c granite (cracks and slabs) in mountaineering boots. No lead climbing is required. 

You have to be confident and quick scrambling up and down over fairly technical and exposed terrain. 

This is a long day climbing at high altitude (4000m). You need to be therefore very physically fit and have good stamina to stay strong and focused for the whole day. 

Acclimatisation is necessary for this route.

Equipment

Clothing

Mountaineering boots

Mountaineering boots

Warm hat

Warm hat

Fleece or woollen layers

Fleece or woollen layers

Light puffer jacket

Light puffer jacket

Windproof and waterproof jacket

Windproof and waterproof jacket

Warm gloves

Warm gloves

Thin gloves

Thin gloves

Gaiters

Gaiters

Climbing pants

Climbing pants

Long sleeve shirt

Long sleeve shirt

Technical gear

Ice Axe

Ice Axe

Climbing harness

Climbing harness

3 x Screwgate carabiner

3 x Screwgate carabiner

Belay device

Belay device

Climbing helmet

Climbing helmet

Crampons

Crampons

25-30 litres rucksack

25-30 litres rucksack

Lanyard

Lanyard

60 cm tape sling or cordelette for prusik

60 cm tape sling or cordelette for prusik

Other essentials

Sunglasses

Sunglasses

Water bottle - Ideally two 1L bottles

Water bottle - Ideally two 1L bottles

Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)

Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)

Headlamp with fresh batteries

Headlamp with fresh batteries

Sleeping bag liner - lightweight

Sleeping bag liner - lightweight

Included or not

Included

Guide Fee

UIAGM / IFMGA mountain guide - a fully qualified and experienced Chamex guide will accompany you for the duration of your trip.

Mountain hut

1 night in a mountain hut with breakfast and dinner included.

Lift passes

The cost of any lift access that is required during the course for the itinerary described above. 

Group Equipment

Ropes, safety equipment, etc will be provided when needed by your guide.

Office Support

Our team is based at the foot of the Aiguillle du Midi cable car and will be happy to help you with any questions you may have before, during or after your trip to Chamonix.

Not Included

Personal Equipment

Please see the "Equipment" tab to find out what you will need on this trip / course.  For private customised guiding, please contact us directly to confirm your personalised kit list.

Insurance

Travel insurance including a mountain search and rescue insurance is mandatory on all our trips (we can organise the mountai search and rescue insurance for you on request). We highly advice to have a policy covering the cost of medical treatment and to protect the value of your holiday in the event of cancellation. When taking out insurance please ensure the policy you choose covers you for the activities and altitude included in your itinerary.

Food & Drink

The price does not include lunch or snacks. You can bring your own food and we can stop for a picnic, or there may be the option to buy lunch at a mountain hut. Please make sure that you are carrying sufficient water and snacks as we will be in the mountains for a number of hours.

Related Courses

L1050611

Rochefort – Grandes Jorasses Traverse

Fullsizerender_5

Alpine Climbing Course in Chamonix - Level 3

8ff51262-58da-4fcd-86b6-5f22ffa3c4ce_2

Private Mountain Guide