Aiguilles du Diable, Mont Blanc du Tacul
A TRUE MOUNTAINEERING JEWEL, OFFERING GREAT CLIMBING WITH SIX 4000M SUMMITS
The “Aiguilles du Diable” literally Devil’s Spires, are one of Chamonix’s most famous ridge climbs. A comprehensive alpine skill set will be required to complete this amazing traverse that has it all: glacier approach, steep mixed climbing, exposed ridge climb and great rock climbing on perfect granite towers. First climbed in 1928 it became a classic route, which remains high on the wish list of any mountaineer due to its complexity and beauty.
This itinerary is climbed in one day, however you will have to stay in the Torino hut the night before to allow for a very early start.
The approach is a glacier walk towards the Cirque du Maudit from where you will climb to the Col du Diable by the SW couloir. You should reach the Col with the sunrise – probably the best time of the day in the mountains to soak up the views and the atmosphere.
This is where the fun starts! You can put away the crampons and ice axe and enjoy climbing the perfect high alpine rock. The five granite spires composing the Aiguilles du Diable are over 4000m and the climb reaches it’s climax on summit of the Mont Blanc du Tacul.
Corne du Diable (4046 m) Climb the NW ridge to the top of the tower and return by an abseil to the Brèche Chaubert to reach the next tower. This tower is optional and can be skipped if time is tight (4a)
Pointe Chaubert (4074 m) Crack and tricky slab move on the E ridge of the tower (5a) Abseil to the other side of the tower to reach the Brèche Médiane and next tower.
Pointe Médiane (4097 m) A great corner climb 40m with move through a ‘letter box’ to reach the summit (5b). Abseil to the other side to reach Brèche Carmen and the next tower.
Pointe Carmen (4109 m) wide crack (4b) leading to two summits from where you abseil to reach the Brèche du Diable. Scramble to the Brèche de l l’Isolée to reach the next tower.
l’Isolée (4114 m) Climb cracks, corners and flakes (5c) to the summit of the tower and abseil back to the Brèche de l l’Isolée.
From here you have to do a technical, exposed and long scramble to the summit of the Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m) where you pull out your crampons and ice axe for the descent.The descent is by the normal route of the Mont Blanc du Tacul.
