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Aiguilles du Diable, Mont Blanc du Tacul

Fantastic journey of varied and technical ridge climbing at high altitude. Combination of glacier approach, steep mixed climbing, technical granite climbing and summit of the Mont Blanc du Tacul makes this itinerary exceptional and complete.

EXCEPTIONAL AND VARIED CLIMBING IN A WILD HIGH MOUNTAIN ENVIRONMENT

SIX 4000M SUMMITS INCLUDING GRANITE TOWERS AND ALPINE PEAK

ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL RIDGES IN THE ALPS

A TRUE MOUNTAINEERING JEWEL, OFFERING GREAT CLIMBING WITH SIX 4000M SUMMITS

The “Aiguilles du Diable” literally Devil’s Spires, are one of Chamonix’s most famous ridge climbs. A comprehensive alpine skill set will be required to complete this amazing traverse that has it all: glacier approach, steep mixed climbing, exposed ridge climb and great rock climbing on perfect granite towers. First climbed in 1928 it became a classic route, which remains high on the wish list of any mountaineer due to its complexity and beauty.

This itinerary is climbed in one day, however you will have to stay in the Torino hut the night before to allow for a very early start.

The approach is a glacier walk towards the Cirque du Maudit from where you will climb to the Col du Diable by the SW couloir. You should reach the Col with the sunrise – probably the best time of the day in the mountains to soak up the views and the atmosphere.

This is where the fun starts! You can put away the crampons and ice axe and enjoy climbing the perfect high alpine rock. The five granite spires composing the Aiguilles du Diable are over 4000m and the climb reaches it’s climax on summit of the Mont Blanc du Tacul.

Corne du Diable (4046 m) Climb the NW ridge to the top of the tower and return by an abseil to the Brèche Chaubert to reach the next tower. This tower is optional and can be skipped if time is tight (4a)

Pointe Chaubert (4074 m) Crack and tricky slab move on the E ridge of the tower (5a) Abseil to the other side of the tower to reach the Brèche Médiane and next tower.

Pointe Médiane (4097 m) A great corner climb 40m with move through a ‘letter box’ to reach the summit (5b). Abseil to the other side to reach Brèche Carmen and the next tower.

Pointe Carmen (4109 m) wide crack (4b) leading to two summits from where you abseil to reach the Brèche du Diable. Scramble to the Brèche de l l’Isolée to reach the next tower.

l’Isolée (4114 m) Climb cracks, corners and flakes (5c) to the summit of the tower and abseil back to the Brèche de l l’Isolée.

From here you have to do a technical, exposed and long scramble to the summit of the Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m) where you pull out your crampons and ice axe for the descent.The descent is by the normal route of the Mont Blanc du Tacul.

From: 2590 €

Expert

  • Fitness level 5/5
  • Dates on demand
  • Guiding ratio 1:1
  • 2 days itinerary
  • Available May – July
  • 1 night in a hut
Clothing
Mountaineering boots
Clothing
Warm hat
Clothing
Fleece or woollen layers
Clothing
Light puffer jacket
Clothing
Windproof and waterproof jacket
Clothing
Warm gloves
Clothing
Thin gloves with leather palms for better grip
Clothing
Gaiters
Clothing
Climbing pants
Clothing
Long sleeve shirt
Technical gear
Ice axe
Technical gear
Climbing harness
Technical gear
Screwgate carabiner x3
Technical gear
Belay device
Technical gear
Climbing helmet
Technical gear
Crampons
Technical gear
25 – 30 litres rucksack
Technical gear
Lanyard
Technical gear
60 cm tape sling or cordelette for prusik
Other essentials
Sunglasses
Other essentials
Water bottle – Ideally two 1L bottles
Other essentials
Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)
Other essentials
Headlamp with fresh batteries
Other essentials
Sleeping bag liner – lightweight
Included in price

Guide Fee

UIAGM / IFMGA mountain guide – a fully qualified and experienced Chamex guide will accompany you for the duration of your trip.

Mountain hut

1 night in a mountain hut with breakfast and dinner included.

Lift passes

The cost of any lift access that is required during the course for the itinerary described above.

Group Equipment

Ropes, safety equipment, etc will be provided when needed by your guide.

Office Support

Our team is based at the foot of the Aiguillle du Midi cable car and will be happy to help you with any questions you may have before, during or after your trip to Chamonix.

Not included in price

Personal Equipment

Please see the “Equipment” tab to find out what you will need on this trip / course.  For private customised guiding, please contact us directly to confirm your personalised kit list.

Insurance

Travel insurance including a mountain search and rescue insurance is mandatory on all our trips (we can organise the mountai search and rescue insurance for you on request). We highly advice to have a policy covering the cost of medical treatment and to protect the value of your holiday in the event of cancellation. When taking out insurance please ensure the policy you choose covers you for the activities and altitude included in your itinerary.

Food & Drink

The price does not include lunch or snacks. You can bring your own food and we can stop for a picnic, or there may be the option to buy lunch at a mountain hut. Please make sure that you are carrying sufficient water and snacks as we will be in the mountains for a number of hours.