Aiguilles du Diable Traverse: A Classic 4000m Alpine Climb in Chamonix

The Aiguilles du Diable, or Devil’s Spires, are among Chamonix’s most famous ridge climbs. This classic 4000m alpine ridge climb demands a comprehensive alpine skill set, combining glacier approach, steep mixed climbing, exposed ridge sections, and superb rock climbing on pristine granite towers. First ascended in 1928, the traverse remains a top objective for mountaineers due to its stunning complexity and beauty.

Itinerary and Accommodation: Staying at the Torino Hut

While the traverse itself is typically completed in one day, climbers must stay overnight at the Torino Hut to allow for a very early start. This strategic accommodation enables climbers to reach the approach in optimal conditions.

Glacier Approach and Sunrise at Col du Diable

The climb begins with a glacier walk towards the Cirque du Maudit. From there, you ascend the SW couloir to reach the Col du Diable at sunrise, arguably the best time to enjoy breathtaking mountain views and soak in the alpine atmosphere.

The Traverse: High Alpine Rock Climbing on Granite Spires

At the Col du Diable, the technical climbing begins. Here, you can stow away crampons and ice axes and enjoy high alpine rock climbing across five granite spires, each over 4000m high. The traverse culminates with the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul, making for an unforgettable alpine experience.

Detailed Climb of Each Spire

Corne du Diable (4046 m)

Climb the NW ridge to the top of the tower, then abseil back to Brèche Chaubert to continue to the next spire. This tower is optional and can be skipped if time is limited. (Grade 4a)

Pointe Chaubert (4074 m)

Tackle a crack and tricky slab move on the E ridge (Grade 5a). Abseil to the other side to reach Brèche Médiane, preparing for the next climb.

Pointe Médiane (4097 m)

A challenging 40m corner climb with a move through a ‘letter box’ feature to the summit (Grade 5b). Abseil to the other side to reach Brèche Carmen.

Pointe Carmen (4109 m)

Climb a wide crack (Grade 4b) leading to two summits. Abseil down to Brèche du Diable, then scramble to Brèche de l’Isolée for the final tower.

l’Isolée (4114 m)

Navigate cracks, corners, and flakes (Grade 5c) to reach the summit of the final tower. Abseil back to Brèche de l’Isolée.

Final Ascent and Descent: Mont Blanc du Tacul Summit

After the towers, a technical and exposed scramble leads to the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m). Here, you put your crampons and ice axe back on for the descent, which follows the normal route down Mont Blanc du Tacul.