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Climb Aiguille du Chardonnet

Climb Aiguille du Chardonnet via Arete Forbes / Eperon Migot

The Aiguille du Chardonnet (3824m) is a beautiful summit, clearly visible from Chamonix. The steep, rocky walls are not deceiving, there is no easy way to reach this summit. The views and wild alpine scenery are amazing!

We have designed this 3 day course for those who would like to climb some of the best Chamonix alpine classics. You will spend 2 nights in the Albert 1er mountain hut, giving you the full alpine experience and maximising our time in the mountains.

We will take you up the Aiguille du Chardonnet via one of the following routes: the magnificent E Ridge; the Arete Forbes (AD/IV) and the equally interesting and beautiful North Spur, the Eperon Migot (AD+/IV).

The Arete Forbes is a great climb that has it all: the glacier approach, a steep snow and ice climb to reach the ridge and an exposed ridge climb on a solid granite. The Eperon Migot is one of the best Chamonix ultra classic mixed routes. Both have the same descent which is not to be underestimated.

​We deliberately keep the course ratio small on this course, with just 2 clients to each mountain guide, so that you can proceed at your own pace.

If you would like to climb the Aiguille du Chardonnet but do not have the necessary experience, our Alpine Climbing Course is the perfect preparation.

Description

Level & Fitness Requirements

This alpine climbing weekend is not for beginners. You need to already have some alpine climbing experience or have completed one of our alpine climbing courses, you need to be capable of climbing alpine routes of at least AD/III. You should also be physically fit and ready to climb up to 8 hours per day. 

Your mountain guide will decide which route will be taken according to the current conditions. The whole itinerary is subject to change for reasons such as the weather, conditions, hut availability, etc. In this case we will offer another itinerary, if possible of equal interest and difficulty.

Price

1280€

Price per person for a group of minimum 2 participants

Course Dates

Any date on demand

Included

Guide Fees

3 days of guiding and instruction by a UIAGM qualified mountain guide.

Accommodation (half-board)

2 nights accommodation in mountain huts with breakfast and dinner included.

Lift passes

The cost of any lift access that is required during the course for the itinerary described above. 

Group Equipment

Ropes, safety equipment, etc will be provided when needed by your guide.

Office Support

Our team is based at the foot of the Aiguillle du Midi cable car and will be happy to help you with any questions you may have before, during or after your trip to Chamonix.

Not Included

Accommodation

Accommodation in Chamonix is not included in the price but we would be happy to advise or organise it on request.

Insurance

We strongly recommend that you take our Search and Rescue mountain insurance - we can organise this for you on request.

Food & Drink

The price does not include lunch or snacks. You can bring your own food and we can stop for a picnic, or there may be the option to buy lunch at a mountain hut. Please make sure that you are carrying sufficient water and snacks as we will be in the mountains for a number of hours.

Equipment

Please see the "Equipment" tab to find out what you will need. Anything that you do not already have can be rented here in Chamonix, if there is anything you need then please contact us and we will be happy to organise it for you.

For private customised guiding, please contact us directly to confirm your perdoanlised kit list.

Travel to Chamonix

The price does not include flights, airport transfers or any other travel to/from Chamonix. However, we can organise airport transfers for you on request, please contact us for details.

Day 1 - Hike up to Albert 1er Hut

For our first morning we will take the lift from Le Tour up to the start of the hiking path that leads to the Albert Premier mountain hut.

After lunch we will have a crampon and ice axe training session on the Le Tour glacier.

Day 2 - Aiguille du Tour, Couloir de la Table

Couloir de la Table is a nice mixed climb, which is perfect for acclimatisation. We will also refresh our climbing and rope work skills - important aspects for the efficiency and speed of climbing.

In case of bad conditions in the couloir it will be possible to climb something else such as the normal route of the Aiguille du Tour, the Aiguille du Pissoir, the Aiguille Purtscheller... there are plenty of options for us to choose from.

Day 3 - Summit via Arete Forbes or Eperon Migot

We leave the Albert 1er hut early in the morning to climb up the steep approach while the snow is still firm.

We continue either via the rocky Forbes ridge or by the mixed route to the magnificent summit of the Aiguille du Chardonnet, the best view point overlooking the 4 glaciers: Argentiere, Tour, Trient and Saleina.

The descent via the normal route to the glacier du Tour still requires energy and concentration. We'll be back to the Albert 1er hut after 8 to 10 hours of effort, where we will pick up our stuff and head back down to Chamonix.

Climbing the Aiguille du Chardonnet via Eperon Migot
Climbing the Aiguille du Chardonnet via Eperon Migot
Climbing the Aiguille du Chardonnet via Eperon Migot
Climbing the Aiguille du Chardonnet via Eperon Migot
Climbing the Aiguille du Chardonnet via Eperon Migot
Climbing the Aiguille du Chardonnet via Forbes Arete
Climbing the Aiguille du Chardonnet via Forbes Arete

Clothing

Mountaineering boots

Mountaineering boots

Warm hat

Warm hat

Thermal underwear

Thermal underwear

Fleece or woollen layers

Fleece or woollen layers

Light puffer jacket

Light puffer jacket

Windproof and waterproof jacket

Windproof and waterproof jacket

Windproof and waterproof trousers

Windproof and waterproof trousers

Thin gloves

Thin gloves

Gaiters

Gaiters

Sun hat

Sun hat

Technical gear

Ice Axe

Ice Axe

Harness

Harness

Telescopic poles

Telescopic poles

Screwgate carabiner

Screwgate carabiner

60 - 120 cm tape sling

60 - 120 cm tape sling

Belay device

Belay device

Climbing helmet

Climbing helmet

35 - 45 litres rucksack

35 - 45 litres rucksack

Pair of technical ice axes

Pair of technical ice axes

Ice climbing crampons

Ice climbing crampons

Extras

Sunglasses

Sunglasses

Water bottle (1 litre minimum)

Water bottle (1 litre minimum)

Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)

Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)

Headlamp with fresh batteries

Headlamp with fresh batteries

Sleeping bag liner

Sleeping bag liner

Refuge Albert 1er

Aiguille-chardonnet-eperon-migot-02

The Albert 1er hut is one of the most easily accessible mountain refuges in Chamonix, making it popular with hikers as well as climbers and mountaineers.

Access is via the gondola lift from Le Tour up to Charmillon; if it is low season and the lift is not running there is a short hiking trail that you can take instead.

Refuge Albert 1er is clearly signposted from the bottom of the Charmillon chairlift, bear right and follow the trail through wide meadows where you will often see marmots hiding amongst the rocks.

The path climbs steadily up, getting more rocky as it progresses. The last section up to the hut is a bit of a scramble over boulders, with the jagged crevasses of the glacier close by on your right.