Climb aiguille du Chardonnet
CLIMB AIGUILLE DU CHARDONNET VIA ARETE FORBES OR EPERON MIGOT
We have designed this 3-day course for those who would like to climb some of the best Chamonix alpine classics. You will spend 2 nights in the Albert 1er mountain hut, giving you the full alpine experience and maximising our time in the mountains.
We will take you up the Aiguille du Chardonnet via one of the following routes: the magnificent E Ridge; the Arete Forbes (AD/IV) and the equally interesting and beautiful North Spur, the Eperon Migot (AD+/IV). The Arete Forbes is a great climb that has it all: the glacier approach, a steep snow and ice climb to reach the ridge and an exposed ridge climb on a solid granite. The Eperon Migot is one of the best Chamonix ultra classic mixed routes. Both have the same descent, which is not to be underestimated. We deliberately keep the course ratio small on this course, with just 1 client to each mountain guide, so that you can proceed at your own pace.
From: 3290 €
Advanced
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Fitness level 4/5
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Dates on demand
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Guiding ratio 1:1
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3 days of guiding
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Available June – July
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2 nights in mountain huts
Itinerary
Day 1 – Hike up to Albert 1er Hut
For our first morning we will take the lift from Le Tour up to the start of the hiking path that leads to the Albert Premier mountain hut. After lunch we will have a crampon and ice axe training session on the Le Tour glacier.
Day 2 – Aiguille du Tour, Couloir de la Table
Couloir de la Table is a nice mixed climb, which is perfect for acclimatisation. We will also refresh our climbing and rope work skills – important aspects for the efficiency and speed of climbing. In case of bad conditions in the couloir it will be possible to climb something else such as the normal route of the Aiguille du Tour, the Aiguille du Pissoir, the Aiguille Purtscheller… there are plenty of options for us to choose from.
Day 3 – Summit via Arete Forbes or Eperon Migot
We leave the Albert 1er hut early in the morning to climb up the steep approach while the snow is still firm. We continue either via the rocky Forbes ridge or by the mixed route to the magnificent summit of the Aiguille du Chardonnet, the best view point overlooking the 4 glaciers: Argentiere, Tour, Trient and Saleina. The descent via the normal route to the glacier du Tour still requires energy and concentration. We’ll be back to the Albert 1er hut after 8 to 10 hours of effort, where we will pick up our stuff and head back down to Chamonix.
Your mountain guide will decide which route will be taken according to the current conditions. The whole itinerary is subject to change for reasons such as the weather, conditions, hut availability, etc. In this case we will offer another itinerary, if possible of equal interest and difficulty.
Level requirements
Technical level
This alpine climbing weekend is not for beginners. You need to already have advanced alpine climbing experience and have solid skills in climbing with crampons and ice axes. You need to be capable of climbing alpine routes of at least AD/III. For example, if you have climbed routes such as the Midi Plan Traverse, Goulote Chéré on Triangle du Tacul, Tour Ronde or have completed our alpine climbing course level 2 or 3, you are ready for this climb.
If you would like to climb the Aiguille du Chardonnet but do not have the necessary experience, our Alpine Climbing Courses are the perfect preparation.
Physical fitness
You should also be physically very fit and ready to climb up to 8 hours per day.
Guide Fees
3 days of guiding and instruction by a UIAGM qualified mountain guide.
Mountain huts
2 nights in mountain huts with breakfast and dinner included.
Lift passes
The cost of any lift access that is required during the course for the itinerary described above.
Group Equipment
Ropes, safety equipment, etc will be provided when needed by your guide.
Office Support
Our team is based at the foot of the Aiguillle du Midi cable car and will be happy to help you with any questions you may have before, during or after your trip to Chamonix.
Not included in price
Accommodation in Chamonix
Accommodation in Chamonix is not included in the price but we would be happy to advise or organise it on request.
Insurance
Travel insurance including a mountain search and rescue insurance is mandatory on all our trips (we can organise the mountai search and rescue insurance for you on request). We highly advice to have a policy covering the cost of medical treatment and to protect the value of your holiday in the event of cancellation. When taking out insurance please ensure the policy you choose covers you for the activities and altitude included in your itinerary.
Food & Drink
The price does not include lunch or snacks. You can bring your own food and we can stop for a picnic, or there may be the option to buy lunch at a mountain hut. Please make sure that you are carrying sufficient water and snacks as we will be in the mountains for a number of hours.
Personal Equipment
Please see the “Equipment” tab to find out what you will need on this trip / course. For private customised guiding, please contact us directly to confirm your personalised kit list.
Travel to Chamonix
The price does not include flights, airport transfers or any other travel to/from Chamonix. However, we can organise airport transfers for you on request, please contact us for details.