Climb Mont Blanc from Italy & finish in France - experience the best of both worlds! The Italian itinerary is less busy but more difficult than the classic Mont Blanc route.

PURE ASCENT - NO LIFTS
Pure climb to the summit, unaided by lifts - offering a more authentic alpine experience & sense of challenge
1:1 SUMMIT ASCENT
Increased flexibility & a more personalised guiding experience
3 DAY ASCENT OF MONT BLANC
More flexibility to maximise your chance of summiting

CLIMB MONT BLANC VIA THE ITALIAN ROUTE

Chamex 6 day Mont Blanc course with ascent via the Gonella hut.

From 2,750.00€

Price per person for a group of minimum 2 participants.

   

Advanced tech level

 

3 nights on mountain huts

 

High fitness level

 

6 days of guiding

 

1:1 guiding ratio for MB summit

 

Available June - mid July

Chamonix may be the classic starting point to climb Mont Blanc but there is a lesser known way that goes all the way from Val Veny in Italy to the summit of Monte Bianco, without using any uplifts at all.

Starting in the beautiful valley of Val Veny near Courmayeur, you will hike up to the Gonella Hut at 3071m where you will spend the night before striking out for the summit of Mont Blanc via the Piton des Italiens route. Spectacular scenery and breathtaking views will surround you as you reach the top of Western Europe’s highest glacier at 4809m.

The descent is via the Gouter refuge, back down to Chamonix along the more traditional route to the Nid d’Aigle above Les Houches, so on this trip you get to experience both sides of this iconic mountain.

The beauty of the Italian itinerary is that it is a lot less frequented than the classic Mont Blanc route, so you will cross paths with far fewer people along the way. It is also a longer and more technical route, which is not suitable for beginners to mountaineering, but perfect for anyone looking for more of a challenge in an authentic alpine environment.

How are we different to the other competition? Why book your climb with Chamex? 

  • Our 1:1 guide to client ratio significantly increase chances of your summit success. You will be able to face challenging conditions and will not rely on fitness and abilities of the second climber on the rope. All of the guide’s attention will be directed to you. 
  • Small groups (maximum 4 climbers per group) and the 1:1 ratio allows for greater flexibility. If the weather / conditions do not allow us to climb Mont Blanc, we will take you climbing another great summit or technical route within or around Chamonix Valley. 
  • Guaranteed pre-reserved places in the huts. 
  • Fully UIAGM qualified guides, local to Chamonix with years of climbing experience in the area
  • Locally run and fully registered French business, based in Chamonix

Our climb Mont Blanc course is a 6 day trip that includes 3 days of acclimatisation and mountain skills training in and around the Chamonix valley. You will summit some of the smaller but classic peaks such as Aiguille du Tour (3544m), practice glacier safety techniques on the Vallee Blanche and spend a night at the Albert 1er mountain hut. These preparation days will be challenging but a lot of fun, and you’ll get to explore a lot of the famous Mont Blanc Massif.

The final 3 days will be spent climbing Mont Blanc, with a guide ratio of 1:1, to ensure greater safety and enjoyment. The Italian route is considered something of a “purists” route due to the lack of lift assistance, the solitude of the ascent and the fact that it is somewhat longer than the classic route in terms of daily altitude gain and the length of the summit day. If you’re looking for a dose of authentic alpinism, this is it.

Additional Services

Airport transfers

We can help you to organise your transport to/from Chamonix. We work with well established airport transfer companies using new and comfortable vehicles, with the capacity and know-how to handle everything from delayed and cancelled flights, to unexpected traffic jams with professionalism and efficiency.

To book your transfer, we will need the following: 
  • Full name 
  • Mobile phone number 
  • Email address 
  • Your destination address 
  • Flight details (date, time and flight number)
SHARED TRANSFERS: 

This is the most economic and ecologically friendly way of travel. The driver will meet and greet you at the airport, gather you and the rest of the passenger group together and then head off to your chosen destination. The door-to-door service means that you will be dropped off and picked up right at your hotel /chalet / apartment. From 40€ per person for one way and 80€ per person for a return trip.

PRIVATE TRANSFERS: 

Private Transfers are the quickest way to get to and from the airport. Your driver will meet and greet you at the airport and guide you to your vehicle. There is no waiting for other passengers. Private transfers are available for one to eight person bookings and travelling together and you are guaranteed sole occupancy of the vehicle for your transfer. And, of course, it's a door to door service, so you won't be lugging any bags very far. 250€ per car for one way and 500€ per car for a return trip.

Mountain rescue insurance

We don’t include mountain rescue insurance in any of our courses but we strongly recommend that you have it. Mountain rescue may be very expensive, particularly if helicopters are involved. Check with your travel insurance provider if you are covered for the specific activity you are going to do with us.

However, we can organise the mountain rescue insurance for you. The cost is 8€ per person per day for EU residents and 12€ per person per day for non-EU residents. Details of the insurance cover are different for EU and non-EU residents; please contact us for more information.

Equipment hire

We highly recommend that you book any equipment with us at least 2 weeks in advance as the hire shops can have limited availability in the busy season.

You can collect your equipment the evening before the start of the course and return it in the evening at the end of your course. We work with the following Chamonix ski hire and mountain shop:

• Concept Pro Shop that is conveniently located directly next door from our office. Open 7/7 08:00-19:00

Accommodation in Chamonix

If you wish to book accommodation in Chamonix we would be happy to recommend some local hotels, gites, self-catered apartments, or chalets and advise on the best locations. Please contact us if you would like help finding accommodation in Chamonix.

Practical Information

Food

We suggest you bring with you or buy in resort snack food that you can take out on the hill with you each day. Things like cereal bars, dried fruit and nuts, chocolate, sugary sweets or your favourite hill snacks. When you’re staying overnight in huts it's best to take supplies for the days you are away. Huts do sell food but it’s expensive and sometimes stocks run low.

If you have any food allergies or dietary requirements especially if you are a Coeliac (Gluten free) or have a dairy allergy we strongly recommend you bring some food to supplement your hut dinners. The huts are fairly good at providing for vegetarians but less so for other dietary needs. The huts can provide a small basic packed lunch of bread, salami, cheese and chocolate that you can buy each day but it’s important that you don’t rely on this option only. You do need to carry some snack food for each day.

 You will also generally stop for short breaks every hour where you should eat and drink something in order to maintain your energy levels throughout the day.

Staying in Mountain Huts

The high alpine huts are one of the big attractions to mountaineering or trekking in the Alps. They allow us the time to enjoy the mountains with only light packs and without having to worry about meals or finding somewhere to sleep! Most huts have only very basic facilities. Sleeping arrangements are in mixed sex dormitory-style rooms with bunks; there can be up to 20 people in one room.

 Washing facilities are limited and generally there is no running water in any of the huts although this may vary in some huts. There are basins in which you can use bottled water to wash and clean your teeth, but they are NOT generally in private cubicles and are mixed sex. Toilets are generally septic-tank type (so non-flushing) and again mixed sex. You need to be prepared for simple living in the huts and appreciate they are located at high altitude and in inhospitable terrain.

 The guardian and his/her team serve a 3-course evening meal and breakfast - food is usually nourishing and filling. Beer, wine, soft drinks and snacks are also available. All food and drink in the huts is delivered by helicopter and consequently prices will be high e.g. between 5 -10€ or 10CHF for a 1.5litre bottle of still water.

 There are a few basic hut ‘rules’ that you need to follow so that you (and your fellow climbers) have a pleasant stay:

 1) On arriving at the hut you must take off your boots and leave these together with your ice-axe, crampons in the foyer. Be sure to store these carefully as the hut is likely to get very busy and you’ll need to find all your kit in the morning rush!

 2) House slippers are provided and must be worn in the hut

3) Your guide will register you with the guardian and will assign you your bunk

 4) Follow the instructions of your guide and keep requests to the guardian and his team to a minimum – they are usually very busy sorting out groups, cooking meals, keeping the hut clean

 5) In the morning your guide will often want to leave early – be sure to have all your kit ready to go the night before. Be organized and everything will be much easier!

6) It is recommended to bring ear-plugs for the nights – but make sure that you wake up on time!

Bad Weather

If the weather forecast is poor, we will follow an alternative programme. From the Aiguille du Midi you can access the Cosmiques or Torino refuges. These are ideal bases to ascend classic mountaineering routes such as Mt Blanc du Tacul, Cosmiques Arete, Point Lachenal, Tour Ronde and the Aiguille d' Entreves. Or we can drive to Italy or Switzerland and attempt the Gran Paradiso or the Weissmies in the Saas valley – please note there will be additional transport costs for options to Italy or Switzerland.

Itinerary

Arrival in Chamonix

The course starts with an evening meeting at our offices with your course leader and the other members of your group. Your guide will go though the itinerary for the week and answer any questions you may have.

Day 1 - Overnight at the Albert 1er Hut

Today we take the cable car from Le Tour up to the Col de Balme and hike 2-3 hours to reach the Albert Premier refuge at 2707m. The refuge is right beside the glacier and we'll spend some time practising our snow and ice skills. Staying overnight at the Albert Premier hut is great for acclimatisation, we'll enjoy dinner at the hut and sleep in dormitories. If the weather is good the sunny terrace is an excellent place to relax of and the evening and enjoy the view.

Day 2 - Aiguille du Tour

Today involves a bright and early start at about 5am, in order to set out across the glacier as soon as the sun comes up. We aim to summit Aiguille du Tour, a fairly easy climb up to 3542m with a couple of technical bits towards the top, where you'll be rewarded with an amazing view that stretches all the way from Mont Blanc to the Matterhorn.

Day 3 - Vallee Blanche Traverse

Taking the cable car from Chamonix up to the summit of the Aiguille du Midi at 3842m, we will step out through the legendary ice tunnel on to the Vallee Blanche. We will hike across the glacier to Italy and take the Helbronner gondola back. As well as being a spectacular day out, this will give you the opportunity to practise your glacier safety and rope skills. At almost 4000m, it is also valuable acclimatisation training. 

Day 4 - Val Veny & Rifugio Gonella

Leaving Chamonix begin, we drive through the Mont Blanc tunnel to Val Veny in Italy. From here we hike up to the Gonella hut at 3071m, taking about 5 hours. The rest of the afternoon is free to relax and prepare for the following summit day. The Gonella hut is in a beautiful location above the Miage and Dome glaciers, so enjoy the view and get an early night.

Day 5 - Climb Mont Blanc

The big day! Quite literally - we will make a very early start in order to manage approximately 12 to 13 hours of hiking. The ascent of Mont Blanc via the Piton des Italiens route is not particularly technical, but it is long and the high altitude will make it seem even harder. After a slow and steady climb of around 8 hours we will hopefully be standing at 4809m, at the summit of Mont Blanc, gazing at the most magnificent view in the whole of Europe. From the summit we descend to the Gouter hut (3817m) for a well earned night's sleep.

Day 6 - Descend to Chamonix

The hard work is all done and we can enjoy a leisurely breakfast at the Refuge du Gouter and an easy descent down to the Nid d'Aigle above Les Houches and then back to Chamonix by mid-late afternoon, where we will meet at the Chamonix Experience office to celebrate!

Included or not

Included

Mountain Guide Fees

Our course includes 6 days of guiding and instruction by experienced UIAGM qualified mountain guide.

All our guides have been chosen for their lovely personality and high standard of skills.

Mountain huts

3 nights accommodation in mountain huts with breakfast and dinner included.

Lift passes

The cost of any lift access that is required during the course for the itinerary described above. 

Local Transport

Any local transport that is required during your course.

Group Equipment

Ropes, safety equipment, etc will be provided when needed by your guide.

Office Support

Our team is based at the foot of the Aiguillle du Midi cable car and will be happy to help you with any questions you may have before, during or after your trip to Chamonix.

Not Included

Accommodation in Chamonix

Accommodation in Chamonix is not included in the price but we would be happy to advise or organise it on request.

Personal Equipment

Please see the "Equipment" tab to find out what you will need. Anything that you do not already have can be rented here in Chamonix, if there is anything you need then please contact us and we will be happy to organise it for you.

For private customised guiding, please contact us directly to confirm your perdoanlised kit list.

Insurance

We strongly recommend that you take our Search and Rescue mountain insurance - we can organise this for you on request.

Food & Drink

The price does not include lunch or snacks. You can bring your own food and we can stop for a picnic, or there may be the option to buy lunch at a mountain hut. Please make sure that you are carrying sufficient water and snacks as we will be in the mountains for a number of hours.

Travel to Chamonix

The price does not include flights, airport transfers or any other travel to/from Chamonix. However, we can organise airport transfers for you on request, please contact us for details.

Equipment

Clothing

Mountaineering boots

Mountaineering boots

Warm hat

Warm hat

Thermal underwear

Thermal underwear

Fleece or woollen layers

Fleece or woollen layers

Light puffer jacket

Light puffer jacket

Windproof and waterproof jacket

Windproof and waterproof jacket

Windproof and waterproof trousers

Windproof and waterproof trousers

Warm gloves

Warm gloves

Thin gloves

Thin gloves

Gaiters

Gaiters

Sun hat

Sun hat

Technical gear

Ice Axe

Ice Axe

Harness

Harness

Telescopic poles

Telescopic poles

Ski goggles

Ski goggles

Screwgate carabiner

Screwgate carabiner

60 - 120 cm tape sling

60 - 120 cm tape sling

Climbing helmet

Climbing helmet

35 - 45 litres rucksack

35 - 45 litres rucksack

Crampons

Crampons

Extras

Sunglasses

Sunglasses

Water bottle (1 litre minimum)

Water bottle (1 litre minimum)

Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)

Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)

Headlamp with fresh batteries

Headlamp with fresh batteries

Sleeping bag liner

Sleeping bag liner

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