Ice climbing progression course in “Les Ecrins”
LONG ICE AND MIXED CLIMBS
WILD & REMOTE VALLEYS
ICE CLIMBING PERFORMANCE
PERFECT YOUR ICE CLIMBING SKILLS ON WORLD-CLASS ICEFALLS IN THE ÉCRINS
This ice climbing progression course in Écrins is designed for climbers who want to experience long, challenging icefalls and mixed routes in one of the best ice climbing regions in the French Alps.
The Écrins massif is a true paradise for ice climbing thanks to its deep, high-altitude valleys with varied orientations that ensure excellent ice conditions throughout the winter season. This legendary region has shaped ice climbing history, especially in valleys such as Fressinières, where the famous Gramusa wall offers up to 300m of sustained ice lines graded from 5 to 7. Other renowned areas include Ceillac, Crévoux, Les Orres, Le Fournel, La Grave, and Valgaudemar, offering an exceptional diversity of frozen routes.
5 DAYS OF ADVANCED ICE CLIMBING PROGRESSION
Over five days, you will train with a passionate IFMGA mountain guide to refine your technique and build confidence on serious ice terrain. The focus is on risk management, route assessment, efficiency on steep ice, and learning how to handle complex alpine situations safely while enjoying maximum climbing time.
Your progression will include learning how to climb more efficiently, read terrain better, and develop decision-making skills essential for advanced ice climbing in the mountains.
STRUCTURED TRAINING AND REAL ICEFALL CLIMBS
The first day is dedicated to a refresher on a single-pitch ice climbing crag, where you will review fundamental techniques on both ice and rock, as well as rope handling and movement efficiency.
The following four days are spent climbing some of the most impressive icefalls in the Écrins, allowing you to apply your skills on longer, more demanding alpine routes in real conditions.
COMFORTABLE BASE IN THE HEART OF THE ÉCRINS
Throughout the course, you will stay in a comfortable hotel near the village of L’Argentière-la-Bessée, ideally located in the heart of the Écrins ice climbing region, providing quick access to the best valleys and climbing areas each day.
From: 2690 €
Intermediate
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Fitness level 4/5
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Guiding ratio 1:2 last 4 days
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5 days of climbing
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5 nights accommodation
Itinerary
Arrival day
Meeting in Briancon or l’Argentiere. There he will brief you for the week’s plan, conditions and check your equipment. A good night’s rest in your warm hotel and you’ll be ready for your first day!
Day 1
Today it will be a 1 to 4 guiding ratio. The guide will pick you up at the hotel. The valley of Cervieres offers fun ice and mixed climbs for our first day together. A quick revision of what you know and we’ll be on to learning new skills: Leading, reading the ice, advanced ice and dry tooling techniques, everything you’ll need for the next 4 days.
Back to the hotel for a warm shower and a deserved rest!
Day 2
The big climbs start today! The Fournel Valley will be our destination with its many long grade 4 and 5 climbs. Today we will also work on risk assessment and avalanche safety as these are key points in ice climbing safely.
Day 3
La Grave is a mythical place, at the foot of the legendary “Meije”. Around the village there are many high altitude ice climbs from grade 4 to grade 6. These great classics will provide high quality ice for you to sink you ice tools in. Back to the hotel for a warm meal!
Day 4
Time to go to the valley where the ice legends are born. The famous valley of Fressinieres and it’s giant ice falls! Here the climbs are up to 300m long and the grades…well let’s just say the best ice climbers in the world have found challenges here, but don’t worry, there are climbs fit for you too. A great place to try out some mixed routes too.
Day 5
Unfortunately our last day. Although you will be sad your forearms will be glad! If there is a valley you’ve particularly enjoyed we can go back for another climb, if not, les Orres will be perfect with it’s long ice streaks. Hopefully by then you will have mastered advanced ice and dry tooling techniques and understood the risk inherent to ice climbing and how to manage them safely!
There are so many valley’s filled with ice climbs;Ceillac, Crevoux, les Orres, Fressinières, Le Fournel, La Grave, Cervieres, Aguilles, val d’escrins… to name a few! The above program is a general idea, your guide will be the to suggest the climbs with best conditions so the program may change.
This is the last day of the course, you will be free to leave after the climbing or stay longer if you prefer.
Level requirements
Fitness level:
For this course you will need a good fitness level. You should be able to hike and climb for 5 full consecutive days. Trudging through deep snow on approaches and hanging on your ice tools will be your daily challenge.
Technical level
This is not a beginners course, you should have some previous ice climbing experience. Rock climbing regularly is also a really good plus.
Training
Regular cardio training, climbing at the gym as well as good upper body strength will help you live the course to the fullest.
Guide Fees
5 days of guiding and instruction by a UIAGM qualified mountain guide.
Accommodation
5 nights in a hotel. Accommodation is on shared basis with breakfast and dinner.
Local Transport
Local transport provided in accordance with instructor/guide’s available car capacity
Group Equipment
Ropes, safety equipment, etc will be provided when needed by your guide.
Office Support
Our team is based at the foot of the Aiguillle du Midi cable car and will be happy to help you with any questions you may have before, during or after your trip to Chamonix.
Not included in price
Personal Equipment
Please see the “Equipment” tab to find out what you will need on this trip / course. For private customised guiding, please contact us directly to confirm your personalised kit list.
Food & Drink
The price does not include lunch or snacks. You can bring your own food and we can stop for a picnic, or there may be the option to buy lunch at a mountain hut. Please make sure that you are carrying sufficient water and snacks as we will be in the mountains for a number of hours.
Insurance
Travel insurance including a mountain search and rescue insurance is mandatory on all our trips (we can organise the mountai search and rescue insurance for you on request). We highly advice to have a policy covering the cost of medical treatment and to protect the value of your holiday in the event of cancellation. When taking out insurance please ensure the policy you choose covers you for the activities and altitude included in your itinerary.
Transport to L’Argentière-la-Bessée
Transport is not included. Closest airports to arrive there are Torino (2h drive), Grenoble (3h drive), Lyon (3h30 drive). Best way to get from any of the airports is to rent a car and drive to L’Argentière-la-Bessée.