Price per person for a group of 2 climbers
Intermediate tech level |
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4 days programme |
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1:2 guiding ratio |
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2 nights in huts |
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Available June - September |
This 4 day programme was designed for those who prefer to summit the Mont Blanc in a shorter time frame with a private guide. You will be alone with your own guide and the ascent will be adapted to your speed and abilities. You will have the full attention of your guide allowing for faster progress during on the training day as well as a faster ascent to the summit of Mont Blanc.
This programme is divided into two parts: The first day is allocated for preparation, acclimatisation and training. You may visit one of the famous local glaciers – the Vallee Blanche, where you will climb one of the classic mixed routes, e.g. traverse of the Pointes Lachenal or les Marbrees. Or, you will climb a route such at the traverse des Crochues. This will be decided by your guide depending on your previous climbing experience, weather forecast and current conditions. We will work with you on your ice axe & crampon techniques, rope work and glacier travel safety skills.
The last three days are allocated for the Mont Blanc ascent. You will climb Mont Blanc via the normal route. We will stay in the Tete Rousse and the Gouter huts. We will summit the Mont Blanc on the 3rd or 4th day of the programme, depending on the weather and conditions, and return to Chamonix.
We run these programmes from beginning of June until end of September. Please contact us for dates and guide availability.
One client or one climbing team of 2 per guide during all 4 days.
This itinerary is an example of what could be achieved with good weather and the right conditions. It will be changed by your guide to suit conditions and the group. The course starts with an evening meeting between you and your guide at our office. Your guide will go though the plan for the coming days and answer any questions you have.
The first day is allocated for the preparation and training. There are few options for the itinerary and we will choose one according to the weather and conditions. For example, we will take Skyway cable car and climb the Traverse of the Marbrees. Climbing above 3000m will help with the aclimatisation. However, we recommend to acclimatize prior the course if you have the opportunity to do so.
This is the first day of the Mont Blanc ascent. We will drive to Les Houches and take a cable car + train to the Nid d'Aigle (2 372m). At the start and end of the season, the train and lift are not running and we use 4x4 car to get to the top of the Bellevue lift. You would hike from / to there in this case (additional 1 hour of hiking eachway).
From here there is about 3 hours hike to the Tete Rousse hut (3165 m), where you will spend the night.
A big day! Weather permitting you will aim to summit Mont Blanc today. The ascent takes about 6 to 7 hours You should be on the summit with the sunrise. You will start very early in the morning. First, 3 hours of hiking/scrambling to the Gouter refuge (3 817m). You will then push on over the glaciated terrain to the summit of Mont Blanc. Then descent the same way back to the Gouter hut where you will rest and spend the night.
If you have not summited the day before, you will make the attempt today requiring a 1am start. After summiting, we will have to descend all the way down to the valley and should be back in Chamonix by mid-late afternoon.
Mont Blanc is a relatively technical and physically very demanding climb. You have to be able to move over uneven terrain with some steep sections and some scrambling pitches. You have to be able to hike and climb over such terrain for about 8 hours at a good and steady pace without being too tired the next day. If you have some previous mountain climbing experience, such as Kilimanjaro or Aconcagua, it is great. But you should expect a far greater physical and technical challenge on the Mont Blanc climb. However, we do accept beginners on this course and the first 3 days are allocated for acclimatisation and alpine training, which is specific for the challenge of climbing Mont Blanc. We will train you in crampon and ice axe techniques, glacier travel, and other important safety skills. As long as you are fit and have good stamina, you should not be disadvantaged by a lack of climbing experience.
A very high level of physical fitness is mandatory for this trip. Regular hiking and/or long distance running, swimming and/or cycling are great forms of training for this course. Remember that you have to include some uphill hiking and/or running - training on flat terrain will not give you the same kind of fitness, however it is better than no training at all! If you live in a city and have limited access to the outdoors, ask for advice at your local gym as many gyms have mountain climbing specific training programs.
It will help if you are already acclimatized prior the course.
If you need further advice on how to prepare for this course, please contact us on info@chamex.com
Mountaineering boots
Warm hat
Thermal underwear
Fleece or woollen layers
Light puffer jacket
Windproof and waterproof jacket
Windproof and waterproof trousers
Warm gloves
Thin gloves
Gaiters
Sun hat
Ice Axe
Climbing harness
Telescopic poles
Ski goggles
Climbing helmet
Crampons
25-30 litres rucksack
Sunglasses
Water bottle - Ideally two 1L bottles
Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)
Headlamp with fresh batteries
Sleeping bag liner
4 days of guiding and instruction by a UIAGM qualified mountain guide.
2 nights accommodation in mountain huts with breakfast and dinner included.
The cost of any lift access that is required during the course for the itinerary described above.
Any local transport that is required during your course.
Ropes, safety equipment, etc will be provided when needed by your guide.
Our team is based at the foot of the Aiguillle du Midi cable car and will be happy to help you with any questions you may have before, during or after your trip to Chamonix.
Accommodation in Chamonix is not included in the price but we would be happy to advise or organise it on request.
Please see the "Equipment" tab to find out what you will need on this trip / course. For private customised guiding, please contact us directly to confirm your personalised kit list.
The price does not include lunch or snacks. You can bring your own food and we can stop for a picnic, or there may be the option to buy lunch at a mountain hut. Please make sure that you are carrying sufficient water and snacks as we will be in the mountains for a number of hours.
The price does not include flights, airport transfers or any other travel to/from Chamonix. However, we can organise airport transfers for you on request, please contact us for details.
We suggest you bring with you or buy in resort snack food that you can take out on the hill with you each day. Things like cereal bars, dried fruit and nuts, chocolate, sugary sweets or your favourite hill snacks. When you’re staying overnight in huts it's best to take supplies for the days you are away. Huts do sell food but it’s expensive and sometimes stocks run low.
If you have any food allergies or dietary requirements especially if you are a Coeliac (Gluten free) or have a dairy allergy we strongly recommend you bring some food to supplement your hut dinners. The huts are fairly good at providing for vegetarians but less so for other dietary needs. The huts can provide a small basic packed lunch of bread, salami, cheese and chocolate that you can buy each day but it’s important that you don’t rely on this option only. You do need to carry some snack food for each day.
You will also generally stop for short breaks every hour where you should eat and drink something in order to maintain your energy levels throughout the day.
The high alpine huts are one of the big attractions to mountaineering or trekking in the Alps. They allow us the time to enjoy the mountains with only light packs and without having to worry about meals or finding somewhere to sleep! Most huts have only very basic facilities. Sleeping arrangements are in mixed sex dormitory-style rooms with bunks; there can be up to 20 people in one room.
Washing facilities are limited and generally there is no running water in any of the huts although this may vary in some huts. There are basins in which you can use bottled water to wash and clean your teeth, but they are NOT generally in private cubicles and are mixed sex. Toilets are generally septic-tank type (so non-flushing) and again mixed sex. You need to be prepared for simple living in the huts and appreciate they are located at high altitude and in inhospitable terrain.
The guardian and his/her team serve a 3-course evening meal and breakfast - food is usually nourishing and filling. Beer, wine, soft drinks and snacks are also available. All food and drink in the huts is delivered by helicopter and consequently prices will be high e.g. between 5 -10€ or 10CHF for a 1.5litre bottle of still water.
There are a few basic hut ‘rules’ that you need to follow so that you (and your fellow climbers) have a pleasant stay:
1) On arriving at the hut you must take off your boots and leave these together with your ice axe, crampons in the foyer. Be sure to store these carefully as the hut is likely to get very busy and you’ll need to find all your kit in the morning rush!
2) House slippers are provided and must be worn in the hut
3) Your guide will register you with the guardian and will assign you your bunk
4) Follow the instructions of your guide and keep requests to the guardian and his team to a minimum – they are usually very busy sorting out groups, cooking meals, keeping the hut clean
5) In the morning your guide will often want to leave early – be sure to have all your kit ready to go the night before. Be organized and everything will be much easier!
6) It is recommended to bring earplugs for the nights – but make sure that you wake up on time!
The Bellevue lift and the Mont Blanc train are not operating during the early June and late September. During this time, we organise a 4x4 taxi to drive you to the top of Bellevue lift from where you start the Mont Blanc ascent. Please note that the taxi may not be able to go as far if there is still lot of snow on the route and you may be dropped off before the Bellevue. This will add approximately 1 - 2 hours to the ascent - descent to the Gouter hut. You have to be therefore physically fit and have good stamina. As a reward, you will have good climbing conditions and less people on the climb.
We may also have to change the course itinerary in case of bad weather, dangerous conditions on the mountain, heavy traffic through the Mont Blanc tunnel or closure of the tunnel or any other circumstances which we can not control.
If the weather forecast is poor, we will follow an alternative programme. From the Aiguille du Midi you can access the Cosmiques or Torino refuges. These are ideal bases to ascend classic mountaineering routes such as Mt Blanc du Tacul, Cosmiques Arete, Point Lachenal, Tour Ronde and the Aiguille d' Entreves. Or we can drive to Italy or Switzerland and attempt the Gran Paradiso or the Weissmies in the Saas valley – please note there will be additional transport costs for options to Italy or Switzerland.
Please see the list of recommended equipment on the other tab. Most technical equipment can be rented here in Chamonix, please contact us if you would like prices and advice on whatever you need. Chamonix has dozens of outdoor shops selling everything from basic head torches to expedition standard sleeping bags, so whatever you don't already have you can find it here.
We highly recommend that you take out specific insurance for mountain activities. We can organise this at a cost of 8€ per day for EU citizens and 12€ per day for non-EU citizens. This will cover you for search and rescue services, evacuation by helicopter and emergency medical treatment. You should also make sure that you have adequate travel insurance that covers you for the usual things such as cancelled flights, lost luggage, hospital treatment, etc. Please contact us to organise mountain rescue insurance for your trip.
If you wish to book accommodation in Chamonix we would be happy to recommend some local hotels, gites, self-catered apartments, or chalets and advise on the best locations. Please contact us if you would like help finding accommodation in Chamonix.
We can help you to organise your transport to/from Chamonix. We work with well-established airport transfer companies which use new and comfortable vehicles and which have the capacity and know-how to handle everything from delayed and cancelled flights, to unexpected traffic jams with professionalism and efficiency.
This is the most economic and ecologically friendly way of travel. The driver will meet and greet you at the airport, gather you and the rest of the passenger group together and then head off to your chosen destination. The door-to-door service means that you will be dropped off and picked up right at your hotel /chalet / apartment. From 40€ per person for one-way and 80€ per person for a return trip.
Private Transfers are the quickest way to get to and from the airport. Your driver will meet and greet you at the airport and guide you to your vehicle. There is no waiting for other passengers. Private transfers are available for one to eight person bookings and travelling together and you are guaranteed sole occupancy of the vehicle for your transfer. And, of course, it's a door-to-door service, so you won't be lugging any bags very far. 250€ per car for one-way and 500€ per car for a return trip.