An exhilarating 6 day itinerary climbing the infamous Mont Blanc with a UIAGM mountain guide. This programme includes notable summits of both Monte Rosa and Mont Blanc.
More flexibility to maximise your chance of summiting
Climb summit in Monte Rosa (4215m) and Mont Blanc (4810m)
Guaranteed places in the Tete Rousse and/or Gouter huts for those who book the course early (before September)
The first part of this course offers classic Italian style mountaineering in comfortable huts and good food.
The Monte Rosa area provides quick and easy access to high alpine glacier and snow terrain from both the local lifts and huts.
We will use the Staffal lift and either the Gnifetti (3647m) or Mantova hut (3498m) as our base for the acclimatisation, crampon & ice axe training for the first two days of the course.
Sleeping above 3000m altitude will help with acclimatisation.
During this time you will summit one of serval introductory level 4000m summits , such as Pyramid Vincent(4215m), Zumsteinspitze (4563m), Parrotspitze (4432m) or Ludwigshohe (4341m), which will further your acclimatisation and put your crampon skills to the test.
The 3rd day of the course will be kept flexible, so your guide can adapt the itinerary to focus on any skills or techniques they feel you need to work on a bit further.
The final 3 days of the itinerary will then be dedicated to climbing the famous Mont Blanc via the Normal Route with nights spend in the Tete Rousse and Gouter huts.
Price per personView Dates
|Two More to Guarantee|
Please note that this itinerary is an example of what we can do if the weather and conditions allow. The program will be adapted if the mountain conditions or weather prevent a summit attempt. We will discuss the alternative options and re-organise the itinerary so you can climb a different summit or route that is in condition.
We will hold ann early evening meeting in our office to discus the program in full, check your equipment and answer any questions you may have.
Drive to Gressoney-La-Trinite in Italy (2 ½ hour) and take the Staffal lift. After a quick snack, we will work on the crampon and ice axe techniques that are needed for the Mont Blanc ascent. You will spend the night in either the Gnifetti or the Mantova hut.
There are few options, Vincentpiramid (4215m), Ludwigshöhe (4341m), Zumsteinspitze (4563m), Parrotspitze (4432m) just to name some. The exact summit will be chosen by your guide depending on the weather, conditions and skills of the group. You will return to Chamonix after the climb.
Today is flexible – your guide will decide the itinerary depending on what skills you need to further for the Mont Blanc ascent. Crampons and ice axe training on the Mer de Glace glacier or glacier trek on the Vallee Blanche for acclimatisation or traverse des Aiguilles Crochues if scrambling skills are needed.
Now that your training is completed, you are ready for the ascent of Mont Blanc! You will walk up to the refuge Tête Rousse. You will be at the hut by early afternoon, giving you plenty of time to enjoy the dramatic location and spectacular views. Dinner will be eaten at the hut and we will have an early night to prepare for an early start in the morning.
The Big Day! Weather permitting you will aim to summit Mont Blanc today. The ascent takes about 6 to 7 hours and we will set off early to reach the summit. You will either return by the same route to the Gouter hut, where you will spend the night.
If you have not summited the day before, you will make the attempt today requiring a 1am start. After summiting, we will have to descend all the way down to the valley and should be back in Chamonix by mid-late afternoon, where we will meet at the Chamonix Experience office to celebrate!
Mont Blanc is a relatively technical and physically very demanding climb. You have to be able to move over uneven terrain with some steep sections and some scrambling pitches. You have to be able to hike and climb over such terrain for about 8 hours at a good and steady pace without being too tired the next day.
If you have some previous mountain climbing experience, such as Kilimanjaro or Aconcagua, it is great. But you should expect a far greater physical and technical challenge on the Mont Blanc climb.
However, we do accept beginners on this course and the first 3 days are allocated for acclimatisation and alpine training, which is specific for the challenge of climbing Mont Blanc. We will train you in crampon and ice axe techniques, glacier travel, and other important safety skills. As long as you are fit and have good stamina, you should not be disadvantaged by a lack of climbing experience.
Regular hiking and/or long distance running, swimming and/or cycling are great forms of training for this course. Remember that you have to include some uphill hiking and/or running - training on flat terrain will not give you the same kind of fitness, however it is better than no training at all! If you live in a city and have limited access to the outdoors, ask for advice at your local gym as many gyms have mountain climbing specific training programs.
If you need further advice on how to prepare for this course, please contact us on firstname.lastname@example.org
Fleece or woollen layers
Light puffer jacket
Windproof and waterproof jacket
Windproof and waterproof trousers
Long sleeve shirt
Water bottle - Ideally two 1L bottles
Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)
Headlamp with fresh batteries
Washbag and toiletries
Sleeping bag liner - lightweight
With regards to conditions, June, early July are good months as there is still good snow cover in the high mountains and risk of rock fall in the Grand Couloir is low.
September is also usually good as the temperatures typically drop in the Autumn and we often have storms helping to top up the snow levels, in turn stabilising the Grand Couloir once again.
Late July and August are the hottest months in Chamonix and the conditions are often dry. This is bad for climbing Mont Blanc as the snow bridges over the crevasses on the glaciers start to weaken and the Grand Couloir becomes more prone to rock falls.
There is also possibility to climb Mont Blanc in October. The huts and lifts are closed but we can organise a 4X4 taxi to bring you to the top of Bellevue lift. From there you can hike up to the Tete Rousse. You will be staying in the winter room of the hut which is equipped with beds and warm covers. You would have to bring your food with you and cook your dinner, but your guide would help to organise this. The advantage of this period, is that the mountain is pretty quiet as oppose to the main summer season.
The climb is rated PD+. Although not overly technical and the skills required can be learnt during the first 3 days of training, the main challenge stems from it’s pure physicality and altitude.
You do however need to be comfortable with some exposure to heights and be well co-ordinated and efficient moving over rocky and uneven terrain carrying backpack.
For more in depth information on how to prepare and what to expect on this climb, please click here to view our Mont Blanc handbook here.
The climb is very physically demanding, and very commonly under estimated, which is a big mistake, made by many who attempt it.
You will need to train seriously for this challenge and arrive will an excellent level of physical and muscular endurance.
You need to be practicing long distance cardiovascular sports such as running, hiking, cycling and swimming 4-5 times per week, leading up to this challenge.
This can vary depending on the speed of the group, the weather and the mountain conditions at the time of your trip, but usually most groups descend and arrive back in Chamonix between 12h00 and 16h00 on day 6 of the course (unless unforeseen circumstances, e.g traffic, delay the return).
As with any mountaineering trip, whether that be an undefined general alpine climbing itinerary or more focused summit programme, arriving with flexible mindset is essential.
Bad weather and unfavourable conditions are variables that we just cannot control, so in the event that the objective of Mont Blanc is not possible, your guides will discuss the available options with you and you adapt the itinerary to climb an alternate summit or route.
You will need to book a min of 4 nights accommodation here in central Chamonix on the night before the course starts and on days 2,3 and 6 of the course. You will be staying in mountain huts as part of the course on the nights 1, 4 and 5 of the course.
However, please note that these are high-mountain huts and you may need accommodation in Chamonix if we can not reach the hut in case of bad weather or if you simply can not climb further and have to turn back. Make sure your hotel offers you the flexibility to have a room if needed.
No. The huts provide warm blankets and pillows. You just need to bring with you a lightweight cotton/silk sleeping bag liner for your own personal hygiene.
UIAGM / IFMGA qualified mountain guides with years of experience in guiding all around the world.
610 Route Blanche