A classic ridge climb offering 250m of interesting and varied climbing with some excitingly aerial pitches. This is a ‘must do’ for everyone wishing to climb aesthetic granite lines in the Mont Blanc massif.

PAPILLONS RIDGE, AIGUILLE DU PEIGNE

Brilliant route, varied pitches, interesting terrain, 6a crux, 5c obligatory

From 450.00€

Price per guide for up to 2 climbers.

   

Intermediate tech level

 

Fitness level 3/5

 

One day climb

 

Guiding ratio 1:2

 

Available June - October

The Arete des papillons was first climbed by Henri Camere and Raymond dewas in 1926. It has been one of the most popular rock routes in the Mont Blanc massif ever since. 

The approach ris relatively quick from the Aiguille du Midi – Plan lift station making this itinerary convenient in case of limited time availability. However this climb can be quite busy so make sure you do not miss the last lift, otherwise you will have walk all the back way to Chamonix. 

The climb is an amazing combination of slabs, cracks, corners and ridges which can be sometimes airy – in short, this is true adventure climbing. The hardest moves are 6a but you really need to climb 5c to complete the route as you can pull on slings to get through the hard moves. You certainly can not be afraid of heights on this climb as some of the moves while being easy and safe do feel aerial even for the following climber. 

The descent is also interesting with some rappels and scramble down the Papillons Couloir to reach the path leading back to the lift station.

Itinerary

You will meet your guide early in the morning (time of the meeting will be given prior the day) and take the Aiguille du Midi lift to the Plan station.  The approach is not very long, about 45 min. This is a short/full day climb, you should be back mid afternoon.

Level Requirements

This is a relatively short day climb comparing to other granite itineraries. You still should be fit and strong to climb and hike for 6 hours. 

The hardest pitch is 6a (just a short section), however you can pull through the crux moves by the slings if needed. You should definitely be comfortable and confident climbing 5b on a steep wall and ridge following your guide. 

Equipment

Clothing

Warm hat

Warm hat

Fleece or woollen layers

Fleece or woollen layers

Windproof and waterproof jacket

Windproof and waterproof jacket

Warm gloves

Warm gloves

Climbing shoes

Climbing shoes

Climbing pants

Climbing pants

Approach shoes

Approach shoes

Long sleeve shirt

Long sleeve shirt

Technical gear

Climbing harness

Climbing harness

3 x Screwgate carabiner

3 x Screwgate carabiner

Belay device

Belay device

Climbing helmet

Climbing helmet

Lanyard

Lanyard

60 cm tape sling or cordelette for prusik

60 cm tape sling or cordelette for prusik

Climbing backpack 20L

Climbing backpack 20L

Other essentials

Sunglasses

Sunglasses

Water bottle - Ideally two 1L bottles

Water bottle - Ideally two 1L bottles

Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)

Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)

Included or not

Included

Guide Fee

UIAGM / IFMGA mountain guide - a fully qualified and experienced Chamex guide will accompany you for the duration of your trip.

Group Equipment

Ropes, safety equipment, etc will be provided when needed by your guide.

Office Support

Our team is based at the foot of the Aiguillle du Midi cable car and will be happy to help you with any questions you may have before, during or after your trip to Chamonix.

Not Included

Lift Passes

We will advise you on which lift passes you will need prior to your trip. If lift passes are required we can preorder them for you on request.

Personal Equipment

Please see the "Equipment" tab to find out what you will need on this trip / course.  For private customised guiding, please contact us directly to confirm your personalised kit list.

Food & Drink

The price does not include lunch or snacks. You can bring your own food and we can stop for a picnic, or there may be the option to buy lunch at a mountain hut. Please make sure that you are carrying sufficient water and snacks as we will be in the mountains for a number of hours.

Insurance

Travel insurance including a mountain search and rescue insurance is mandatory on all our trips (we can organise the mountai search and rescue insurance for you on request). We highly advice to have a policy covering the cost of medical treatment and to protect the value of your holiday in the event of cancellation. When taking out insurance please ensure the policy you choose covers you for the activities and altitude included in your itinerary.