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Rébuffat – Baquet route, aiguille du Midi (3842m)

Fantastic classic route on high altitude quality granite. It offers very varied climbing: slabs, cracks and laybacks. The south facing exposure and easy access place this climb on top of every climber’s wish list.


Climbed for the first time in 1956 by Maurice Baquet and the famous Gaston Rébuffat, this route offers fantastic climbing on high quality and well structured alpine granite.

The 200m itinerary follows the line of an obvious and varied meandering crack in the face of an impressive towering red wall.

The second pitch is where you will encounter the famous S shaped crack, just below a protruding roof section, involving some precision moves and good footwork.

The pitches that follow are varied and interesting and will certainly put your arms and grip skills to the test during some of the more athletic moves.

The summit of the route tops out at 3800m, just next to the Aiguille du Midi lift station where you will be greeted by truly exceptional views of the surrounding glaciers and 4000m peaks.

After two short abseils, you will be back on the ground with both feet and firmly planted on the reassuring terraces of the Aiguille du Midi lift station, right in the middle of the crowds of tourists who will not fail to congratulate you on your ascent. A real hero moment, to be savoured.

The “Rébuffat” route is a total classic and an absolutely must for any keen granite climber in the Mont Blanc massif. To avoid overcrowding on the route we therefore recommend an early start.

Don’t be fooled by the height and the modest grade ratings of this climb in the guide book. This is a demanding route requiring some skills. Moreover it is poorly equipped in places except for the belays, which makes the route more of a challenge, using protections that consist of pitons, straps and friends.

From: 570 €


You have solid experience in the mountains or rock climbing. You’ve already completed multiple ascents graded French AD or harder and long, multi-pitch rock climbs. You are self sufficient with the basic equipment and safety techniques of multi pitch rock climbing. You can lead climb up to French 5 on rock/ gym and alpine routes up to French PD. You can follow up to French 6a-6b on rock and alpine routes graded French D.
  • Fitness level 3/5
  • Dates on demand
  • Guiding ratio 1:2
  • 1 day climb
  • Available May – October
Mountaineering boots
Thermal underwear
Fleece or woollen layers
Light puffer jacket
Windproof and waterproof jacket
Thin gloves
Approach shoes
Climbing pants
Technical gear
Ice axe
Technical gear
Climbing harness
Technical gear
Screwgate carabiner x3
Technical gear
Technical gear
35 – 45 litres rucksack
Technical gear
Technical gear
60 cm tape sling or cordelette for prusik
Technical gear
Belay device
Technical gear
Climbing helmet
Other essentials
Other essentials
Water bottle – Ideally two 1L bottles
Other essentials
Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)
Included in price

Guide Fee

UIAGM / IFMGA mountain guide – a fully qualified and experienced Chamex guide will accompany you for the duration of your trip.

Group Equipment

Ropes, safety equipment, etc will be provided when needed by your guide.

Not included in price

Personal Equipment

Please see the “Equipment” tab to find out what you will need on this trip / course.  For private customised guiding, please contact us directly to confirm your personalised kit list.

Lift Passes

We will advise you on which lift passes you will need prior to your trip. If lift passes are required we can preorder them for you on request.


Travel insurance including a mountain search and rescue insurance is mandatory on all our trips (we can organise the mountai search and rescue insurance for you on request). We highly advice to have a policy covering the cost of medical treatment and to protect the value of your holiday in the event of cancellation. When taking out insurance please ensure the policy you choose covers you for the activities and altitude included in your itinerary.