Climbed for the first time in 1956 by Maurice Baquet and the famous Gaston Rébuffat, this route offers fantastic climbing on high quality and well structured alpine granite.

The 200m itinerary follows the line of an obvious and varied meandering crack in the face of an impressive towering red wall.

The second pitch is where you will encounter the famous S shaped crack, just below a protruding roof section, involving some precision moves and good footwork.

The pitches that follow are varied and interesting and will certainly put your arms and grip skills to the test during some of the more athletic moves.

The summit of the route tops out at 3800m, just next to the Aiguille du Midi lift station where you will be greeted by truly exceptional views of the surrounding glaciers and 4000m peaks.

After two short abseils, you will be back on the ground with both feet and firmly planted on the reassuring terraces of the Aiguille du Midi lift station, right in the middle of the crowds of tourists who will not fail to congratulate you on your ascent. A real hero moment, to be savoured.

The “Rébuffat” route is a total classic and an absolutely must for any keen granite climber in the Mont Blanc massif. To avoid overcrowding on the route we therefore recommend an early start.

Don’t be fooled by the height and the modest grade ratings of this climb in the guide book. This is a demanding route requiring some skills. Moreover it is poorly equipped in places except for the belays, which makes the route more of a challenge, using protections that consist of pitons, straps and friends.