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Lyskamm (4527m) Traverse

Climb one of the most beautiful snow ridges in the Alps. This exciting long ridge will allow you to traverse the two summits of Lyskamm in the heart of Monte Rosa range and enjoy the amazing views over all of the Valais 4000m mountains.


First climbed by EN Buxton, L Stephen with mountain guides J Anderegg and F Binner in 1864. The traverse is rated AD. There are some steep snow slopes (45º) and a rocky scramble crux rated II+.

We start from the village of Gressoney-La-Trinité in Italy’s Aosta Valley, a village that is also known as a ski freeride paradise. We will take a gondola up to Colle di Bettaforca and walk 3h up to the Quintino Sella Hut, well situated at the edge of the Felik Glacier at 3598m. An alpine start will see us reaching 4000m at dawn; from there we will follow the long snow ridge, sometimes sharp and corniced, all the way to the summit of Lyskamm West at 4479m then across and towards the highest point of Lyskamm East at 4527m. An exhilarating descent brings us to the broad Lys Col and then down the nice easy south slopes to the Gnifetti Hut, and onwards until we reach the Punta Indren Gondola that will take us down to the starting point after completing an amazing traverse of the mountain.

This climb is one of the most iconic snow ridges in the Alps; it can be climbed from west to east, but also from east to west so as to combine this climb with an ascent of the nearby Monte Rosa or Castor. This ascent will sharpen your snow climbing skills, and will be especially beneficial for those aspiring to attempt big mountain expeditions. It will give you excellent acclimation for your next alpine climb.

From: 2260 €


  • Fitness level 5/5
  • Dates on demand
  • Guide Ratio 1:1
  • Climb over 2 days
  • Available June – September
  • 1 night in a hut
Mountaineering boots
Warm hat
Thermal underwear
Fleece or woollen layers
Light puffer jacket
Windproof and waterproof jacket
Windproof and waterproof trousers
Warm gloves
Thin gloves
Sun hat
Technical gear
Ice axe
Technical gear
Climbing harness
Technical gear
Telescopic poles
Technical gear
Screwgate carabiner x3
Technical gear
Belay device
Technical gear
Climbing helmet
Technical gear
Technical gear
25 – 30 litres rucksack
Technical gear
Technical gear
60 cm tape sling or cordelette for prusik
Other essentials
Other essentials
Water bottle – Ideally two 1L bottles
Other essentials
Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)
Other essentials
Headlamp with fresh batteries
Other essentials
Optional items
Sleeping bag liner (Opt)
Included in price

Guide Fees

2 days of guiding and instruction by a UIAGM qualified mountain guide.

Mountain hut

1 night in a mountain hut with breakfast and dinner included.

Lift passes

The cost of any lift access that is required during the course for the itinerary described above.


Return transport from Chamonix to Italy.

Group Equipment

Ropes, safety equipment, etc will be provided when needed by your guide.

Office Support

Our team is based at the foot of the Aiguillle du Midi cable car and will be happy to help you with any questions you may have before, during or after your trip to Chamonix.

Not included in price

Accommodation in Chamonix

Accommodation in Chamonix is not included in the price but we would be happy to advise or organise it on request.

Personal Equipment

Please see the “Equipment” tab to find out what you will need on this trip / course.  For private customised guiding, please contact us directly to confirm your personalised kit list.

Travel to Chamonix

The price does not include flights, airport transfers or any other travel to/from Chamonix. However, we can organise airport transfers for you on request, please contact us for details.

Food & Drink

The price does not include lunch or snacks. You can bring your own food and we can stop for a picnic, or there may be the option to buy lunch at a mountain hut. Please make sure that you are carrying sufficient water and snacks as we will be in the mountains for a number of hours.


Travel insurance including a mountain search and rescue insurance is mandatory on all our trips (we can organise the mountai search and rescue insurance for you on request). We highly advice to have a policy covering the cost of medical treatment and to protect the value of your holiday in the event of cancellation. When taking out insurance please ensure the policy you choose covers you for the activities and altitude included in your itinerary.