Contamine route, Pointe Lachenal (3613m)
Overview of the Contamine Route on Pointe Lachenal
Located halfway along the Vallée Blanche traverse, the Contamine Route on Pointe Lachenal offers breathtaking views of iconic Chamonix landmarks such as the Grand Capucin, Dent du Géant, and the east face of Mont Blanc du Tacul. This beautiful alpine setting, combined with high-quality granite, makes it a must-do climb for keen rock and mixed-climbing enthusiasts.
Positioned midway between the Aiguille du Midi and Punta Helbronner, this classic Chamonix trad route enjoys excellent sun exposure and is often sheltered from the wind. The Contamine Route follows the right side of the south face of Pointe Lachenal, offering mainly crack climbing with two outstanding 6a+ pitches near the top. The climbing is traditional, but all belays are equipped with bolts for added security.
This is a full day of alpine adventure. We usually take the first lift (“bin”) from the Aiguille du Midi, departing as early as 06:30 during peak summer. The climbing itself takes around 3–4 hours, covering 250m of vertical gain over 8 pitches (maximum grade 6a+), but you should expect a total outing of 6–8 hours including approach and return.
The day begins with the cable car ride up to the Aiguille du Midi. From the top station, we descend the ridge heading toward Italy and Punta Helbronner. The start of the route is reached on foot in approximately 45 minutes to 1 hour.
The 8-pitch route is as follows:
- Pitch 1: 6b or 5+
- Pitch 2: 5
- Pitch 3: 5
- Pitch 4: 6a+
- Pitch 5: 6a+
- Pitch 6: 3+
- Pitch 7: 5
- Pitch 8: 4
We leave heavy glacier equipment at the base to climb light and efficiently. Expect mainly crack climbing, excellent granite, and the two superb crux pitches high on the face. The full climb typically takes 4–6 hours depending on conditions and pace.
After reaching the top, we make a straightforward abseil down a direct line to the base of the south face. From there, it’s about 1.5 hours of walking back up to the Aiguille du Midi station before descending to Chamonix — usually in time to celebrate the day’s ascent with a well-earned cold drink.
