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Located in the heart of the Cirque Maudit, the Chandelle du Tacul is a compact granite monolite offering world class climbing in a spectacular high alpine environment of mighty glaciers, 4000m peaks and granite towers.
The Chandelle du Tacul (3613m) is one of the satellite towers of the Grand Capucin. It is a true needle of golden granite, which is also an incredible viewpoint: on one side, the slender profiles of the Trident and the Grand Capucin, on the other, the glacial basins of the Maudit and Brenva, dominated by the snowy cap of the Mont Blanc.
The Bonatti Tabou combines the best parts of two routes: lower pitches of the Bonatti route (Bonatti–Gallieni 1960) and top pitches of and Tabou (Piola–Stappazzon 1988) follow an elegant and sustained line on fantastically featured and solid granite wall: 245m of 5c – 6b+ of cracks, slabs and corners.
The Chandelle du Tacul is accessed by a glacier trek passing through séracs of the Glacier du Géant from the Skyway lift station. This glacier approach makes the itinerary a marvellous example of the alpine climbing typical to the Chamonix valley.
You have solid experience in the mountains or rock climbing. You’ve already completed multiple ascents graded French AD or harder and long, multi-pitch rock climbs. You are self sufficient with the basic equipment and safety techniques of multi pitch rock climbing. You can lead climb up to French 5 on rock/ gym and alpine routes up to French PD. You can follow up to French 6a-6b on rock and alpine routes graded French D.
