Located in the heart of the Cirque Maudit, the Chandelle du Tacul is a compact granite monolite offering world class climbing in a spectacular high alpine environment of mighty glaciers, 4000m peaks and granite towers.

BONATTI TABOU, CHANDELLE DU TACUL (3581M)

Best parts of two great routes are combined into a fantastic and sustained climb

   

Advanced tech level

 

Physical fitness 4/5

 

1 full day of climbing

 

Guiding ratio 1:2

 

Available June - October

The Chandelle du Tacul (3613m) is one of the satellite towers of the Grand Capucin. It is a true needle of golden granite, which is also an incredible viewpoint: on one side, the slender profiles of the Trident and the Grand Capucin, on the other, the glacial basins of the Maudit and Brenva, dominated by the snowy cap of the Mont Blanc.

The Bonatti Tabou combines the best parts of two routes: lower pitches of the Bonatti route (Bonatti–Gallieni 1960) and top pitches of and Tabou (Piola–Stappazzon 1988) follow an elegant and sustained line on fantastically featured and solid granite wall: 245m of 5c – 6b+ of cracks, slabs and corners.

The Chandelle du Tacul is accessed by a glacier trek passing through séracs of the Glacier du Géant from the Skyway lift station. This glacier approach makes the itinerary a marvellous example of the alpine climbing typical to the Chamonix valley.

Itinerary

Your guide will meet you and pick you up early in the morning to drive across the Mont Blanc tunnel to the Skyway Monte Bianco lift station in Italy.  At the top of the lift you will put on crampons and rope up for the approach, which will take about 1h20. The glacier equipment and anything that you do not need for the climb can be left at the base of the route to help keep the climb light. 

  • P0 6a Corner, cracks and slab
  • P1 5c 
  • P2 6b+ Steep cracked corner, athletic and sustained
  • P3 5c
  • P4 6a+ Long and varied pitch of cracks and corners
  • P5 5b 10m travers to reach the next pitch
  • P6 6b+ Finger cracks and flakes – the best pitch of the climb
  • P7 6a The last pitch – cracks leading to the summit of the tower

Descent is by abseils and return to the Skyway is the same way as the approach (1h20 walk).

Level Requirements

Technical Level

You need to have good experience in multi pitch granite trad climbing, especially in crack climbing. You have to be comfortable to follow 6b. Abseiling skills are also needed. 

Physical level

This is a long day adventure with an approach and return of 1h20 each, and 250m of sustained climbing at high altitude. You have to therefore have very good physical fitness and stamina. It is helpful to be acclimatised for the climb.

Equipment

Clothing

Mountaineering boots

Mountaineering boots

Warm hat

Warm hat

Fleece or woollen layers

Fleece or woollen layers

Light puffer jacket

Light puffer jacket

Windproof and waterproof jacket

Windproof and waterproof jacket

Warm gloves

Warm gloves

Thin gloves

Thin gloves

Gaiters

Gaiters

Sun hat

Sun hat

Climbing shoes

Climbing shoes

Climbing pants

Climbing pants

Technical gear

Ice Axe

Ice Axe

Climbing harness

Climbing harness

3 x Screwgate carabiner

3 x Screwgate carabiner

Belay device

Belay device

Climbing helmet

Climbing helmet

Crampons

Crampons

25-30 litres rucksack

25-30 litres rucksack

Lanyard

Lanyard

60 cm tape sling or cordelette for prusik

60 cm tape sling or cordelette for prusik

Crack climbing gloves

Crack climbing gloves

Chalk bag

Chalk bag

Other essentials

Sunglasses

Sunglasses

Water bottle - Ideally two 1L bottles

Water bottle - Ideally two 1L bottles

Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)

Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)

Included or not

Included

Guide Fee

UIAGM / IFMGA mountain guide - a fully qualified and experienced Chamex guide will accompany you for the duration of your trip.

Transport

Return transport from Chamonix to Italy.

Group Equipment

Ropes, safety equipment, etc will be provided when needed by your guide.

Office Support

Our team is based at the foot of the Aiguillle du Midi cable car and will be happy to help you with any questions you may have before, during or after your trip to Chamonix.

Not Included

Lift Passes

We will advise you on which lift passes you will need prior to your trip. If lift passes are required we can preorder them for you on request.

Personal Equipment

Please see the "Equipment" tab to find out what you will need on this trip / course.  For private customised guiding, please contact us directly to confirm your personalised kit list.

Food & Drink

The price does not include lunch or snacks. You can bring your own food and we can stop for a picnic, or there may be the option to buy lunch at a mountain hut. Please make sure that you are carrying sufficient water and snacks as we will be in the mountains for a number of hours.

Insurance

Travel insurance including a mountain search and rescue insurance is mandatory on all our trips (we can organise the mountai search and rescue insurance for you on request). We highly advice to have a policy covering the cost of medical treatment and to protect the value of your holiday in the event of cancellation. When taking out insurance please ensure the policy you choose covers you for the activities and altitude included in your itinerary.

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