Bonatti Tabou, Chandelle du Tacul (3581m)
Bonatti Tabou: Classic Alpine Granite Climb in the Mont Blanc Massif
The Bonatti Tabou on the Chandelle du Tacul (3613 m) is a spectacular satellite tower of the Grand Capucin and a must-do for alpine climbers in the Mont Blanc massif. This golden granite needle offers breathtaking views: on one side, the elegant profiles of the Trident and Grand Capucin, and on the other, the glacial basins of Maudit and Brenva, with the snowy Mont Blanc summit in the distance.
The route combines the best of two classic climbs: the lower pitches of the Bonatti route (Bonatti–Gallieni, 1960) and the upper pitches of Tabou (Piola–Stappazzon, 1988). It follows a sustained, elegant line on solid granite, offering 245 m of climbing rated 5c–6b+, featuring cracks, slabs, and corners for a full alpine climbing experience.
Access to the Chandelle du Tacul is via a glacier trek through the dramatic séracs of the Glacier du Géant from the Skyway lift station, making this climb a perfect example of classic Chamonix high-alpine climbing. Guided by Chamex UIAGM mountain guides, climbers enjoy expert support on this world-class granite adventure.
-
Fitness level 4/5
-
Dates on demand
-
Guiding ratio 1:2
-
2 climbers per guide maximum
-
1 full day of climbing
-
Available June – October
Itinerary
Your guide will meet you and pick you up early in the morning to drive across the Mont Blanc tunnel to the Skyway Monte Bianco lift station in Italy. At the top of the lift you will put on crampons and rope up for the approach, which will take about 1h20. The glacier equipment and anything that you do not need for the climb can be left at the base of the route to help keep the climb light.
- P0 6a Corner, cracks and slab
- P1 5c
- P2 6b+ Steep cracked corner, athletic and sustained
- P3 5c
- P4 6a+ Long and varied pitch of cracks and corners
- P5 5b 10m travers to reach the next pitch
- P6 6b+ Finger cracks and flakes – the best pitch of the climb
- P7 6a The last pitch – cracks leading to the summit of the tower
Descent is by abseils and return to the Skyway is the same way as the approach (1h20 walk).
Level requirements
Technical Level
You need to have good experience in multi pitch granite trad climbing, especially in crack climbing. You have to be comfortable to follow 6b. Abseiling skills are also needed.
Physical level
This is a long day adventure with an approach and return of 1h20 each, and 250m of sustained climbing at high altitude. You have to therefore have very good physical fitness and stamina. It is helpful to be acclimatised for the climb.
Guide Fee
UIAGM / IFMGA mountain guide – a fully qualified and experienced Chamex guide will accompany you for the duration of your trip.
Transport
Return transport from Chamonix to Italy.
Group Equipment
Ropes, safety equipment, etc will be provided when needed by your guide.
Office Support
Our team is based at the foot of the Aiguillle du Midi cable car and will be happy to help you with any questions you may have before, during or after your trip to Chamonix.
Not included in price
Lift Passes
We will advise you on which lift passes you will need prior to your trip. If lift passes are required we can preorder them for you on request.
Personal Equipment
Please see the “Equipment” tab to find out what you will need on this trip / course. For private customised guiding, please contact us directly to confirm your personalised kit list.
Food & Drink
The price does not include lunch or snacks. You can bring your own food and we can stop for a picnic, or there may be the option to buy lunch at a mountain hut. Please make sure that you are carrying sufficient water and snacks as we will be in the mountains for a number of hours.
Insurance
Travel insurance including a mountain search and rescue insurance is mandatory on all our trips (we can organise the mountai search and rescue insurance for you on request). We highly advice to have a policy covering the cost of medical treatment and to protect the value of your holiday in the event of cancellation. When taking out insurance please ensure the policy you choose covers you for the activities and altitude included in your itinerary.