The Eiger is a 3970m high mountain in the Bernese Oberland region of the Alps. It is part of the Jungfrau (4158m) - Mönch (4107m) - Eiger mountain ridge formation. While Eiger is not the highest peak of the three, it is the most famous and respected one, particularly in the climbing community. The first ascent of the Eiger was made by Christian Almer, Peter Bohren and Charles Barrington by the western flank in 1858.
But the fame of the Eiger comes from it’s most impressive north face - an 1800m high steep wall, which is is the biggest north face in the Alps. It is considered to be one of the the most difficult and dangerous ascents. The first attempt was made in 1935 by Karl Mehringer and Max Sedlmeyer from Bavaria. They reached altitude of 3300m where bad weather and conditions stopped their progress. Karl and Max, as well as many other climbers, paid the highest price for their attempt. The north face of Eiger became so notorious for the fatal climbing accidents that its nickname Nordwand (the north wall) changed to Mordwand (the death wall). The wall was finally successfully climbed in 1938 by Anderl Heckmair, Ludwig Vorg, Heinrich Harrer and Fritz Kasparek.
We will climb Eiger via the Mittellegi ridge, first ascended by Fritz Amatter, Samuel Brawand, Yuko Maki and Fritz Steuri in 1921. This magnificent ridge is not as difficult as the north face - it is graded as 5b compulsory - but it will still get your adrenalin going! Due to the exposure and sustained grade, the client to guide ratio in all our courses is 1:1.
You will be well prepared for your expedition by 4 days of training and acclimatisation in the Chamonix valley. You will perfect your crampon and ice axe skills on some of the best climbing routes in the Alps, these 4 days alone will be worth the trip - and then you get to climb the Eiger!
There is no other mountain in the Alps that has inspired so many writers and film makers. Books such as the White Spider and Eiger Dreams are fascinating reading for both climbers and non climbers, while the film The Eiger Sanction is a thrilling action classic.
Our 6 day Eiger climbing course is specially designed for those who already have some climbing experience, but are not as confident climbing on rock & ice and acclimatised for the climb as required.
We allocate 4 days for the preparation and training, during which time we will work with you on your crampon and ice axe skills and help you to build confidence in crampon-hiking over steep and exposed terrain. We will take you climbing some of the classic routes in Chamonix to get your rock climbing up to the required level. When the 4 days are over, you will be ready for the Eiger!
To assure a high quality of our guiding and tuition services, we keep the size of the groups small - maximum two clients per guide - which is reflected in the price. However, you will benefit enormously from this small group experience, as it allows for a more interesting itinerary and steeper learning curve.
Day 1 - 4 : 2 clients for 1 guide
Day 5 - 6 : 1 client for 1 guide
The best preparation for this course is regular running, hiking, swimming and biking with focus on endurance, ideally 4-5 times per week. Keep your rock climbing level up with regular indoor or outdoor climbing sessions, you should be confident and quick climbing routes up to French grade 5b.
Do not hesitate to contact us if our existing course dates are not convenient for you. We will be happy to customise a set of dates according to your holiday plans.