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A2

Climb Eiger 6 Day Course

Climb Mont Eiger with a mountain guide, an iconic Alpine peak

The Eiger is a 3970m high mountain in the Bernese Oberland region of the Alps. It is part of the Jungfrau (4158m) - Mönch (4107m) - Eiger mountain ridge formation. While Eiger is not the highest peak of the three, it is the most famous and respected one, particularly in the climbing community. The first ascent of the Eiger was made by Christian Almer, Peter Bohren and Charles Barrington by the western flank in 1858. 

But the fame of the Eiger comes from it’s most impressive north face - an 1800m high steep wall, which is is the biggest north face in the Alps. It is considered to be one of the the most difficult and dangerous ascents. The first attempt was made in 1935 by Karl Mehringer and Max Sedlmeyer from Bavaria. They reached altitude of 3300m where bad weather and conditions stopped their progress. Karl and Max, as well as many other climbers, paid the highest price for their attempt. The north face of Eiger became so notorious for the fatal climbing accidents that its nickname Nordwand (the north wall) changed to Mordwand (the death wall). The wall was finally successfully climbed in 1938 by Anderl Heckmair, Ludwig Vorg, Heinrich Harrer and Fritz Kasparek.

We will climb Eiger via the Mittellegi ridge, first ascended by Fritz Amatter, Samuel Brawand, Yuko Maki and Fritz Steuri in 1921. This magnificent ridge is not as difficult as the north face - it is graded as 5b compulsory - but it will still get your adrenalin going! Due to the exposure and sustained grade, the client to guide ratio in all our courses is 1:1.

You will be well prepared for your expedition by 4 days of training and acclimatisation in the Chamonix valley. You will perfect your crampon and ice axe skills on some of the best climbing routes in the Alps, these 4 days alone will be worth the trip - and then you get to climb the Eiger!

There is no other mountain in the Alps that has inspired so many writers and film makers. Books such as the White Spider and Eiger Dreams are fascinating reading for both climbers and non climbers, while the film The Eiger Sanction is a thrilling action classic. 

Description

Our 6 day Eiger climbing course is specially designed for those who already have some climbing experience, but are not as confident climbing on rock & ice and acclimatised for the climb as required.

We allocate 4 days for the preparation and training, during which time we will work with you on your crampon and ice axe skills and help you to build confidence in crampon-hiking over steep and exposed terrain. We will take you climbing some of the classic routes in Chamonix to get your rock climbing up to the required level. When the 4 days are over, you will be ready for the Eiger!

To assure a high quality of our guiding and tuition services, we keep the size of the groups small - maximum two clients per guide - which is reflected in the price. However, you will benefit enormously from this small group experience, as it allows for a more interesting itinerary and steeper learning curve.

Ratio & Group size 

Day 1 - 4 : 2 clients for 1 guide

Day 5 - 6 : 1 client for 1 guide

Level requirements

  • You need to be an experienced alpine climber on rock, snow and ice.
  • You should be experienced and comfortable climbing PD+ or harder, climbing and traversing on a steep and exposed terrain, climbing in crampons on rock, snow and ice.
  • You need to have multi-pitch climbing rope skills including belaying the lead climber, abseiling in full independence, using prussic and securing yourself on belay points.
  • You have to have an excellent level of fitness and stamina. You must be able to climb for 10-15 hours over technical terrain without losing focus and confidence.

The best preparation for this course is regular running, hiking, swimming and biking with focus on endurance, ideally 4-5 times per week. Keep your rock climbing level up with regular indoor or outdoor climbing sessions, you should be confident and quick climbing routes up to French grade 5b.

Course dates

Do not hesitate to contact us if our existing course dates are not convenient for you. We will be happy to customise a set of dates according to your holiday plans. 

Price

2895€

Price per person for group of 2 clients. 

Course Dates

2018
Start Date End Date Spaces
Jul 23 Jul 28 4
Jul 30 Aug 04 4
Aug 06 Aug 11 4
Aug 13 Aug 18 4
Aug 20 Aug 25 4
Aug 27 Sep 01 4

G
  The Course is guaranteed to run


Included

Mountain Guide Fees

Our course includes 6 days of guiding and instruction by experienced UIAGM qualified mountain guide.

All our guides have been chosen for their lovely personality and high standard of skills.

Accommodation (half-board)

2 nights accommodation in mountain huts with breakfast and dinner included.

Transport

Group transport to Grindelwald.

Group Equipment

Ropes, safety equipment, etc will be provided when needed by your guide.

Office Support

Our team is based at the foot of the Aiguille du Midi cable car and will be happy to help you with any questions you may have before, during or after your trip to Chamonix.

Not Included

Equipment

Please see the "Equipment" tab to find out what you will need. Anything that you do not already have can be rented here in Chamonix, if there is anything you need then please contact us and we will be happy to organise it for you.

For private customised guiding, please contact us directly to confirm your persoanlised kit list.

Insurance

We strongly recommend that you take our Search and Rescue mountain insurance - we can organise this for you on request.

Lift Passes

We will advise you on which lift passes you will need prior to your trip. If lift passes are required we can preorder them for you on request.

Food & Drink

The price does not include lunch or snacks. You can bring your own food and we can stop for a picnic, or there may be the option to buy lunch at a mountain hut. Please make sure that you are carrying sufficient water and snacks as we will be in the mountains for a number of hours.

Accommodation

Accommodation in Chamonix is not included in the price but we would be happy to advise or organise it on request.

Travel to Chamonix

The price does not include flights, airport transfers or any other travel to/from Chamonix. However, we can organise airport transfers for you on request, please contact us for details.

Welcome Meeting in Chamonix

The Eiger climbing course starts with an evening meeting with your mountain guide at the Chamonix Experience office opposite the Aiguille du Midi lift station.

Your mountain guide will go through the plan for the week and answer any questions you may have.

You should bring your equipment (rental and/or personal) to the meeting, for your guide to check that you have everything you will need for the course.

Day 1 - Mer de Glace & Couvercle Hut (2687m)

We start the Eiger climbing course with an ice axe, crampons and rope skills refreshment day on the glacier at Mer de Glace.

Your mountain guide will also teach you crevasse rescue skills which are essential for safe travel on glaciers.

You will then hike up to the Couvercle hut, where you will spend the afternoon refreshing your rock climbing skills. There are very nice rock routes of all difficulties around the hut.

You will spend the night in the hut, sleeping at altitude is an excellent way to acclimatise.

Day 2 - Aiguille du Moine (3412m)

Today is an early start to climb the Aiguille du Moine at 3412m via the normal route, on a south face over mixed terrain of rock and ice.

Aiguille du Moine is a magnificent mountain, you'll have a great climb and a long day! You will descend back to Chamonix after the climb and your guide will drop you back at your accommodation.

Day 3 - Vallee Blanche (3600m)

Today will be a relatively easy day with one of the classic climbs high up on the Vallee Blanche at 3600m, the Arete des Cosmiques.

This is a spectacular ridge climb with mixed terrain and a friendly grade (4a, 4c crux move).

Perfect terrain to dust off your mixed climbing skills and practise new techniques with your mountain guide.

Day 4 - Aiguille du Peigne (3192m)

Today we tackle the normal route on the Aiguille du Peigne; it is 500m long, but a relatively easy and fast climb (4b max).

The Aiguille du Peigne will give you a good idea of what to expect on the Eiger climb: a quick simul-climb up and down the mountain, while being protected by your guide on a ‘short rope’.

Day 5 - Grindelwald, Mittellegihütte (3355m)

Your 4 days of training are completed and you're ready to climb the Eiger!

With your guide, you will drive over to Grindelwald where you will hike up to the Mittellegihütte (3355m). The hike takes around 2.5 hours over rocky and glaciated terrain up to the hut, where you will spend the night.

Get a good night's sleep, as tomorrow we begin our ascent of the Eiger!

Day 6 - Ascent of the Eiger (3970m)

Today is the big day! We usually do our ascents via the Mittellegi ridge which is the most spectacular.

The climb is 615m over a rock and mixed terrain of up to 5b. If the conditions are not good for the ridge, we will choose another itinerary, such as the classic South Ridge (AD or III). These itineraries are not technically very difficult, but they involve a full day of scrambling over tricky terrain where you have to stay well focused.

After the descent we will travel back to Chamonix, where the course will finish over a well-deserved glass of beer.

Clothing

Mountaineering boots

Mountaineering boots

Warm hat

Warm hat

Thermal underwear

Thermal underwear

Fleece or woollen layers

Fleece or woollen layers

Light puffer jacket

Light puffer jacket

Windproof and waterproof jacket

Windproof and waterproof jacket

Windproof and waterproof trousers

Windproof and waterproof trousers

Warm gloves

Warm gloves

Thin gloves

Thin gloves

Gaiters

Gaiters

Sun hat

Sun hat

Technical gear

Ice Axe

Ice Axe

Harness

Harness

Telescopic poles

Telescopic poles

Ski goggles

Ski goggles

Screwgate carabiner

Screwgate carabiner

60 - 120 cm tape sling

60 - 120 cm tape sling

Belay device

Belay device

Climbing helmet

Climbing helmet

35 - 45 litres rucksack

35 - 45 litres rucksack

Crampons

Crampons

Extras

Sunglasses

Sunglasses

Water bottle (1 litre minimum)

Water bottle (1 litre minimum)

Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)

Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)

Headlamp with fresh batteries

Headlamp with fresh batteries

Sleeping bag liner

Sleeping bag liner

Equipment hire

Please see the list of recommended equipment on the other tab. Most technical equipment can be rented here in Chamonix, please contact us if you would like prices and advice on whatever you need. Chamonix has dozens of outdoor shops selling everything from basic headtorches to expedition standard sleeping bags, so whatever you don't already have you can find it here.

Bespoke Private Guiding

We are always happy to organise private guiding, tailored to the needs of any sized group. We have lots of experience in organising corporate events, specialist courses and group trips for all kinds of people no matter what your age or experience. Please get in touch if you would like more information.

Insurance

We highly recommend that you take out specific insurance for mountain activities. We can organise this at a cost of 8€ per day for EU citizens and 12€ per day for non-EU citizens. This will cover you for search and rescue services, evacuation by helicopter and emergency medical treatment. You should also make sure that you have adequate travel insurance that covers you for the usual things such as cancelled flights, lost luggage, hospital treatment, etc. Please contact us to organise mountain rescue insurance for your trip.

Accommodation in Chamonix

If you wish to book accommodation in Chamonix we would be happy to recommend some local hotels, gites, self-catered apartments, or chalets and advise on the best locations. Please contact us if you would like help finding accommodation in Chamonix.

Getting to Chamonix

Chamonix is one of the easiest alpine resorts to get to, being just over an hour's drive from Geneva international airport. Lyon, Turin and Milan airports are also all within a few hour's drive. The best way to get from Geneva airport to Chamonix is by transfer bus, either shared with other passengers or private. You will be met in the arrivals lounge by your driver and dropped at your accommodation in Chamonix, there is no extra charge for your luggage or equipment. We work only with the most reliable transfer companies in the valley and are happy to organise your journey for you, please contact us for prices and booking.

Bad Weather

If the weather forecast is poor, we will follow an alternative programme. There are many options around the French, Italian and Swiss parts of the Alps. For example, from the Aiguille du Midi you can access the Cosmiques or Torino refuges. These are ideal bases to ascend classic mountaineering routes such as Mt Blanc du Tacul, Arete de Cosmiques, Point Lachenal, Tour Ronde and the Aiguille d ‘Entreves. Or we can drive to Italy or Switzerland and attempt the Gran Paradiso or the Weissmies in the Saas valley – please note there will be additional transport costs for options to Italy or Switzerland

Staying in Mountain Huts

The high alpine huts are one of the big attractions to mountaineering or trekking in the Alps. They allow us the time to enjoy the mountains with only light packs and without having to worry about meals or finding somewhere to sleep! Most huts have only very basic facilities. Sleeping arrangements are in mixed sex dormitory-style rooms with bunks; there can be up to 20 people in one room.

Washing facilities are limited and generally there is no running water in any of the huts although this may vary in some huts. There are basins in which you can use bottled water to wash and clean your teeth, but they are NOT generally in private cubicles and are mixed sex. Toilets are generally septic-tank type (so non-flushing) and again mixed sex. You need to be prepared for simple living in the huts and appreciate they are located at high altitude and in inhospitable terrain.

A 3-course evening meal and breakfast are served by the guardian and his team and food is usually nourishing and filling. Beer, wine, soft drinks and snacks are also available. All food and drink in the huts is delivered by helicopter and consequently prices will be high e.g. between 5 -10€ or 10CHF for a 1.5litre bottle of still water.
There are a few basic hut ‘rules’ that you need to follow so that you (and your fellow climbers) have a pleasant stay:

1) On arriving at the hut you must take off your boots and leave these together with your ice-axe, crampons in the foyer. Be sure to store these carefully as the hut is likely to get very busy and you’ll need to find all your kit in the morning rush!
2) House slippers are provided and must be worn in the hut
3) Your guide will register you with the guardian and will assign you your bunk
4) Follow the instructions of your guide and keep requests to the guardian and his team to a minimum – they are usually very busy sorting out groups, cooking meals, keeping the hut clean.
5) In the morning your guide will often want to leave early – be sure to have all your kit ready to go the night before. Be organized and everything will be much easier!
6) It is recommended to bring ear-plugs for the nights – but make sure that you wake up on time!

Food

We suggest you bring with you or buy in resort snack food that you can take out on the hill with you each day. Things like cereal bars, dried fruit and nuts, chocolate, sugary sweets or your favourite hill snacks. When you’re staying overnight in huts its best to take supplies for the days you are away. Huts do sell food but it’s expensive and sometimes stocks run low.

If you have any food allergies or dietary requirements especially if you are a Coeliac (Gluten free) or have a dairy allergy we strongly recommend you bring some food to supplement your hut dinners. The huts are fairly good at providing for vegetarians but less so for other dietary needs. The huts can provide a small basic packed lunch of bread, salami, cheese and chocolate that you can buy each day but it’s important that you don’t rely on this option only. You do need to carry some snack food for each day.

You will also generally stop for short breaks each hour where you should eat and drink something each time in order to maintain your energy levels throughout the day.

Optional equipment

Thermos – Not essential due to weight, but it can be comforting to have a hot drink on a cold day.

Water bottle – Should be at least 1 1/2 litres and durable. 
Camelbak hydration systems are good as long as they are kept clean. Not recommended for winter sports or high altitude climbing as the tube tends to freeze up.

Earplugs - can be useful for sleeping in the shared rooms on the mountain huts. But make sure you wake up on time!

Our Guides

All Chamex mountain guides are fully qualified, highly experienced and passionate about what they do. Everyone who works as part of the Chamex team has been throughly vetting and is trusted by us to give our clients the best experience possible - you are in safe hands! If you would like to know more then you can meet the Chamex team here.