Welcome Meeting in Chamonix
The Eiger climbing course starts with an evening meeting with your mountain guide at the Chamonix Experience office opposite the Aiguille du Midi lift station.
Your mountain guide will go through the plan for the week and answer any questions you may have.
You should bring your equipment (rental and/or personal) to the meeting, for your guide to check that you have everything you will need for the course.
Day 1 - Rock Climbing in Chamonix
We start the Eiger climbing course with rock climbing at one of the great multi-pitch areas in Chamonix to refresh our rope work skills. We will choose nice easy itineraries that will give us the opportunity to check your level and work on improving your climbing and rope skills. Les Aiguilles Rouges or Plan des Aiguilles offer some great climbing and scrambling terrain to practice on.
Day 2 - Mer de Glace & Couvercle Hut (2687m)
Today we will do an ice axe, crampons and rope skills refreshment on the glacier at Mer de Glace. Your mountain guide will also teach you basic crevasse rescue skills which are essential for safe travel on glaciers. You will then hike up to the Couvercle hut, where you will spend the night. Sleeping at altitude is an excellent way to acclimatise.
Day 3 - Aiguille du Moine (3412m)
Today is an early start to climb the Aiguille du Moine at 3412m via the normal route, on a south face over mixed terrain of rock and ice. Aiguille du Moine is a magnificent mountain; you'll have a great climb and a long day! You will descend back to Chamonix after the climb and your guide will drop you back at your accommodation.
Day 4 - Aiguille du Peigne (3192m)
Today we tackle the normal route on the Aiguille du Peigne; it is 500m long, but a relatively easy and fast climb (4b max). The Aiguille du Peigne will give you a good idea of what to expect on the Eiger climb: a quick simul-climb up and down the mountain, while being protected by your guide on a ‘short rope’.
Day 5 - Grindelwald, Mittellegihütte (3355m)
Your 4 days of training are completed and you're ready to climb the Eiger! With your guide, you will drive over to Grindelwald where you will hike up to the Mittellegihütte (3355m). The hike takes around 2.5 hours over rocky and glaciated terrain up to the hut, where you will spend the night. Get a good night's sleep, as tomorrow we begin our ascent of the Eiger!
Day 6 - Ascent of the Eiger (3970m)
Today is the big day! We usually do our ascents via the Mittellegi ridge which is the most spectacular. The climb is 615m over a rock and mixed terrain of up to 5b. If the conditions are not good for the ridge, we will choose another itinerary, such as the classic South Ridge (AD or III). These itineraries are not technically very difficult, but they involve a full day of scrambling over tricky terrain where you have to stay well focused. After the descent we will travel back to Chamonix, where the course will finish over a well-deserved glass of beer.