Quick transfer to Courmayeur from where we’ll reach the Torino Hut by the Skyway cablecar. Night in the hut.

Very early start (3am). First we will reach Rochefort ridge by the Geant glacier. We follow the ridge to the Aiguille de Rochefort (4001m), continue to the Dome du Rochefort (4015m) and to the Canzio Hut (8-10 hours).

From the Col des Grandes Jorasses climb to the poine Traverse of Jorasses from Pointe Young to Pointe Young (3996m) then up to Pointe Marguerita (4065m), Pointe Hélèna (4045m), Pointe Whymper  (4184m) , and finally on to reach the last summit, Pointe Walker (4208m). The traverse is complete and we can start the descent by the normal route on the south face of the Grandes Jorasses. We descent until the Boccalatte hut where we stay for the night (10 - 12h).

Descent to the valley floor along the hiking path that will take us down to the Planpincieux village from where a transfer will take us back to Chamonix (2h).

Technical level

You must be able to climb grade 5 (UIAA V) comfortably, confidently and fast, in mountain boots, wearing a quite heavy pack. You have to be fast and confident down climbing steep and exposed terrain, sometimes wearing crampons.

Physical fitness

You need to be in excellent physical shape in order to be able to move quickly and efficiently on technical terrain, without getting exhausted. The high altitude will take some of your strength away. The descent is long and difficult and requires a lot of focus and care.

You have to be well acclimatised beforehand for this climb.

Yes sometimes there’s no room at Canzio Hut, then it’s possible to keep going along the ridge until a suitable bivy spot is found. This have the benefit of shortening the summit day and allow to embark on the tricky descent before the hottest hours of the day.

Yes it’s possible depending on conditions and physical shape.

Yes and it’s not always possible to use the rope to pull on to aid yourself while climbing some of these sections.