Price per person
Expert tech level |
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Fitness level 5/5 |
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3-4 days itinerary |
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2 nights in huts and a bivouac |
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Available April - June, depending on conditions |
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Guiding ratio 1:1 |
Rochefort – Grandes Jorasses Traverse is an extraordinarily long and superb climb – one of the major Chamonix classic mixed climbs. First climbed in 1935, it remains to be one of the most committing and testing itineraries for its grade.
It is a 3 day long journey through some fantastic terrain including tricky rock sections, fine mixed climbing and exposed ridges. You will collect no less than seven 4000m summits on the way.
Starting from the Torino Hut you will climb in the following order:
The descent is also long and engaging.
Quick transfer to Courmayeur from where we’ll reach the Torino Hut by the Skyway cablecar. Night in the hut.
Very early start (3am). First we will reach Rochefort ridge by the Geant glacier. We follow the ridge to the Aiguille de Rochefort (4001m), continue to the Dome du Rochefort (4015m) and to the Canzio Hut (8-10 hours).
From the Col des Grandes Jorasses climb to the poine Traverse of Jorasses from Pointe Young to Pointe Young (3996m) then up to Pointe Marguerita (4065m), Pointe Hélèna (4045m), Pointe Whymper (4184m) , and finally on to reach the last summit, Pointe Walker (4208m). The traverse is complete and we can start the descent by the normal route on the south face of the Grandes Jorasses. We descent until the Boccalatte hut where we stay for the night (10 - 12h).
Descent to the valley floor along the hiking path that will take us down to the Planpincieux village from where a transfer will take us back to Chamonix (2h).
You must be able to climb grade 5 (UIAA V) comfortably, confidently and fast, in mountain boots, wearing a quite heavy pack. You have to be fast and confident down climbing steep and exposed terrain, sometimes wearing crampons.
You need to be in excellent physical shape in order to be able to move quickly and efficiently on technical terrain, without getting exhausted. The high altitude will take some of your strength away. The descent is long and difficult and requires a lot of focus and care.
You have to be well acclimatised beforehand for this climb.
Mountaineering boots
Warm hat
Thermal underwear
Fleece or woollen layers
Light puffer jacket
Windproof and waterproof jacket
Windproof and waterproof trousers
Warm gloves
Thin gloves
Gaiters
Ice Axe
Climbing harness
3 x Screwgate carabiner
Belay device
Climbing helmet
Crampons
Lanyard
60 cm tape sling or cordelette for prusik
30l backpack
Sunglasses
Water bottle - Ideally two 1L bottles
Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)
Headlamp with fresh batteries
Earplugs
Sleeping bag comfort rating 0°C
Fork & spoon
Camping mat
Camping mug
Yes sometimes there’s no room at Canzio Hut, then it’s possible to keep going along the ridge until a suitable bivy spot is found. This have the benefit of shortening the summit day and allow to embark on the tricky descent before the hottest hours of the day.
Yes it’s possible depending on conditions and physical shape.
Yes and it’s not always possible to use the rope to pull on to aid yourself while climbing some of these sections.