Traverse of the Drus (3754m)

The great Petit Dru to the Grand Dru traverse is a serious and committed route, a true monument of mountaineering.

CHALLENGING ROUTE, PETIT DRU – GRAND DRU TRAVERSE

The Drus is an immense granite face towering over the Chamonix Valley.

The smaller neighbour to the Aiguille Verte , it is impressive and imposing. The 900m west face is steep, technical, and a stunning complement to one of the six great north faces of the Alps – recognised for it’s significance in the birth of modern mountaineering.

The Drus has two separate summits: The Grande Aiguille du Dru (3754m) and Petite Aiguille du Dru (3733m), connected by the Breche du Dru (3697m).

The traverse, first completed in 1901, remains a serious and committing route – a true test for experienced alpinists.

While the climbing is quite technical and physical in places, the true challenge lies in combining the climbing, length, terrain complexity, altitude, and level of commitment.

We have included additional night in the Charpoua hut for your comfort. You do not need to hurry to catch the last train back to Chamonix or face a long walk down in case you missed it. We know that the timing is tight and it can be stressful if you are tired. You can rest in the hut for the night and descent the next day.

Our Chamex mountain guides will be delighted to climb this truly iconic route with you!

From: 3190 €

Expert

Fitness level 5/5
Dates on demand
Guiding ratio 1:1
3-day itinerary
Available June – July
2 nights in a mountain hut

MAKE ENQUIRY

Itinerary

D1 – Hike up to the Charpoua hut (2841m)

Your guide will either pick you up from your accommodation or meet you at the Montenvers train station to take the train up to the top station. This is where the adventure begins. Quick climb down the ladders leading to the Mer de Glace glacier and hike up to the Charpoua hut (2841m) where we stay for the night. (about 3h30)

D2 – Climb the traverse of the Drus (3754m)

Very early start, we wake up at 1am. We head towards the Charpoua glacier, which we quickly cross towards the foot of the S face of the Drus where we can take off our crampons. The first part of the climb, with relatively easy passages, leads to the brèche des Flammes de Pierre. This is where the more technical climbing starts with some fairly physical passages to reach the summit of Petit Dru (about 6h from the start of the climb). Two more hours of climbing and we should reach the summit of the Grand Dru. The descent is long with several abseils – it will bring us back to glacier from where we quickly get back to the Charpoua hut.

To avoid the pressure to catch the last train to Chamonix, we will stay in the hut for another night to relax after the climb and enjoy the mountain views. The mission is completed, the dream fulfilled.

D3 – Return to Chamonix

Return to Chamonix in the morning.

Level requirements

Technical level

This climb is for highly experienced mountaineers. You need to be comfortable, confident and fast, climbing granite up to 6a in mountaineering boots with a backpack. You need to have very good rope skills and expert abseiling skills. You also need experience in glacier travel skills (walking on crampons).

Physical level

You need excellent physical fitness and stamina to climb with confidence and good speed for about 12 hours. The climbing is fairly physical and technical. You also need to be acclimatized for this climb.

Equipment

Included or not

Technical gear

Mountaineering boots

Clothing

Warm hat

Clothing

Fleece or woollen layers

Clothing

Light puffer jacket

Clothing

Windproof and waterproof jacket

Clothing

Warm gloves

Clothing

Thin gloves with leather palms for better grip

Clothing

Gaiters

Clothing

Sun hat

Clothing

Climbing pants

Technical gear

Ice axe

Technical gear

Climbing harness

Technical gear

Screwgate carabiner x3

Technical gear

Belay device

Technical gear

Climbing helmet

Technical gear

Crampons

Technical gear

Lanyard

Technical gear

60 cm tape sling or cordelette for prusik

Technical gear

30 litres backpack

Other essentials

Sunglasses

Other essentials

Water bottle – Ideally two 1L bottles

Other essentials

Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)

Other essentials

Headlamp with fresh batteries

Other essentials

Sleeping bag liner – lightweight

Included in price

Guide Fee

UIAGM / IFMGA mountain guide – a fully qualified and experienced Chamex guide will accompany you for the duration of your trip.

Lift passes

The cost of any lift access that is required during the course for the itinerary described above.

Mountain huts

2 nights in mountain huts with breakfast and dinner included.

Group Equipment

Ropes, safety equipment, etc will be provided when needed by your guide.

Office Support

Our team is based at the foot of the Aiguillle du Midi cable car and will be happy to help you with any questions you may have before, during or after your trip to Chamonix.

Not included in price

Personal Equipment

Please see the “Equipment” tab to find out what you will need on this trip / course. For private customised guiding, please contact us directly to confirm your personalised kit list.

Food & Drink

The price does not include lunch or snacks. You can bring your own food and we can stop for a picnic, or there may be the option to buy lunch at a mountain hut. Please make sure that you are carrying sufficient water and snacks as we will be in the mountains for a number of hours.

Insurance

Travel insurance including a mountain search and rescue insurance is mandatory on all our trips (we can organise the mountai search and rescue insurance for you on request). We highly advice to have a policy covering the cost of medical treatment and to protect the value of your holiday in the event of cancellation. When taking out insurance please ensure the policy you choose covers you for the activities and altitude included in your itinerary.