VOIE DES SUISSES, GRAND CAPUCIN (3838M)

Gran Capucin is a tall, steep rock pinnacle made of compact and nicely sculptured granite. With the summit at 3 838m, it offers superb and challenging high altitude rock climbing of difficulties ranging from 6a+ to 8a+. 

The Swiss Route was first climbed in 1956 by Claude Asper, Marcel Bron, Mario Grossi and Marcel Morel. It may be one of the earliest and more popular of routes established, but it is by no means easy! 

You can reach the start of the climb either from top of the Punta Helbronner lift or from the Aiguille du Midi lift. Be prepared for a long day (8 – 10h). Staying in the Torino or Cosmiques hut maybe a good idea to gain more time. It is good idea to be acclimatised in advance for this route. 

The climb itself is around 300m on challenging terrain, it can however be longer if the bergshrund at the base is open. The pitches are as follows: 1) 5c 25m, 2) 6a+ 30m, 3) 5b 35m 4) 5b 35m 5) 6a 40m 6) 6a+ 20m 7) 6b 30m 8) 6a+ 35m 9) 4a 35m 10) 4a 35m. The descent is by abseil.