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Voie des Suisses, Grand Capucin (3838m)

Grand Capucin is a flawless rock pinnacle in the middle of the Vallee Blance. The Swiss Route is 300+ m of superb crack climbing of up to 6b climbing difficulty and A1 (7B free climbing).

300+ M OF SUPERB CRACK CLIMBING OF UP TO 6B CLIMBING DIFFICULTY AND A1 (7B FREE CLIMBING)

Gran Capucin is a tall, steep rock pinnacle made of compact and nicely sculptured granite. With the summit at 3 838m, it offers superb and challenging high altitude rock climbing of difficulties ranging from 6a+ to 8a+.

The Swiss Route was first climbed in 1956 by Claude Asper, Marcel Bron, Mario Grossi and Marcel Morel. It may be one of the earliest and more popular of routes established, but it is by no means easy!

You can reach the start of the climb either from top of the Punta Helbronner lift or from the Aiguille du Midi lift. Be prepared for a long day (8 – 10h). Staying in the Torino or Cosmiques hut maybe a good idea to gain more time. It is good idea to be acclimatised in advance for this route.

The climb itself is around 300m on challenging terrain, it can however be longer if the bergshrund at the base is open. The pitches are as follows: 1) 5c 25m, 2) 6a+ 30m, 3) 5b 35m 4) 5b 35m 5) 6a 40m 6) 6a+ 20m 7) 6b 30m 8) 6a+ 35m 9) 4a 35m 10) 4a 35m. The descent is by abseil.

From: 1300 €

Expert

You have accumulated a well rounded list of difficult multi-pitch rock climbs, and climb regularly at a good level. You can lead French 5+ and follow French 6b-6c. You have good rope work and safety skills (building belays, safely belaying lead climber, abseiling, etc.)
  • Fitness level 5/5
  • Dates on demand
  • 1 day climb
  • Available June – September
Clothing
Mountaineering boots
Clothing
Warm hat
Clothing
Thermal underwear
Clothing
Fleece or woollen layers
Clothing
Light puffer jacket
Clothing
Windproof and waterproof jacket
Clothing
Thin gloves
Clothing
Gaiters
Clothing
Sun hat
Clothing
Climbing shoes
Clothing
Climbing pants
Technical gear
Ice axe
Technical gear
Climbing harness
Technical gear
Screwgate carabiner x3
Technical gear
Belay device
Technical gear
Climbing helmet
Technical gear
Crampons
Technical gear
25 – 30 litres rucksack
Technical gear
Lanyard
Technical gear
60 cm tape sling or cordelette for prusik
Other essentials
Sunglasses
Other essentials
Water bottle – Ideally two 1L bottles
Other essentials
Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)
Included in price

Guide Fee

UIAGM / IFMGA mountain guide – a fully qualified and experienced Chamex guide will accompany you for the duration of your trip.

Group Equipment

Ropes, safety equipment, etc will be provided when needed by your guide.

Office Support

Our team is based at the foot of the Aiguillle du Midi cable car and will be happy to help you with any questions you may have before, during or after your trip to Chamonix.

Not included in price

Lift Passes

We will advise you on which lift passes you will need prior to your trip. If lift passes are required we can preorder them for you on request.