Welcome Meeting in Chamonix
Our Matterhorn expedition starts with an evening meeting between you and your mountain guide at our Chamonix office. Your guide will go though the plan for the week and answer any questions you may have. We will also check your equipment.
Day 1 - Rock Climbing in Chamonix
Today we will go rock climbing at one of the great multi-pitch routes in Chamonix to refresh our rope work skills. We will choose nice easy itineraries that will give us the opportunity to check your level and work on improving your climbing and rope skills. Les Aiguilles Rouges or Plan des Aiguilles offer some great climbing and scrambling terrain to practice on.
Day 2 - Multi-Pitch Climbing in Chamonix
Climbing the Hornli Ridge on Matterhorn will require you to be fast and confident at climbing and scrambling over exposed terrain. This is what we will practice today and routes such as the normal route on the Peigne, Traverse des Crochues or Traverse des Perrons de Vallorcine offer the perfect terrain to do so. Moreover, these are magnificent climbs offering stunning views of the Chamonix valley!
Day 3 - Climb Aiguille d’Entrèves in Italy
Today you will meet your mountain guide in Chamonix in the morning and then drive across to Palud in Italy, where you take the cable car up to Pointe Helbronner (3462m) from where we will climb the Aiguille d’Entrèves. This climb follows a spectacular ridge offering great exposure and amazing views. You will spend the night at the Torino Refuge.
Day 4 - Climb Dent du Géant
The Dent du Géant is a classic Chamonix climbing route that reaches the small summit of the prominent ‘fang’ like feature on the Franco-Italian boarder. The approach to this climb is done in mountaineering boots with crampons. Once at the base of the climb you will put on your rock shoes. The descent consists of a series of spectacular rappels down the vertical south face. Afterwards you will return to Chamonix for the night.
Day 5 - Hike to Hörnli Hut in Zermatt
Today your mountain guide will meet you at our Chamonix office and check if anybody needs to collect any last minute items before the 3 hour drive to Zermatt. You will park in Tasch and take the train to Zermatt, where you will take a cable car up to Schwarzsee. From here it is about a 2.5 hour walk to the Hörnli refuge, where we will stay overnight before beginning our ascent of the Matterhorn the next day.
Day 6 - Climb the Matterhorn
Summit day! You will leave the Hörnli refuge between 3-4am, in the dark with head torches on. The summit climb is with a smaller guide to client ratio (1:1) and will take 4-5 hours to complete. The steeper sections are equipped with fixed cables. The descent will take approximately as long as the ascent. When you return to Zermatt you will have a celebratory late lunch, before making your way back to Chamonix with your mountain guide.
Please note that this is an example itinerary. The exact programme will depend on the weather forecast, conditions and overall climbing level of the group.